Abstract：
:A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three to 29 were used. Two different types of plates, namely high-roughness (5 μm) and low-roughness (2 μm) plates, were used with a different application rate for each (1.3 mg cm(-2) and 0.75 mg cm(-2) respectively). The UVR dose applied to both plate types followed the same principle as the original test (1.2 J. cm(-2) × UVAPF0). Strong, significant correlations between in vitro and in vivo UVAPF values were observed for both plate types (Pearson correlation > 0.9, P ≤ 0.01). The correlation and slope obtained with the low-roughness plates confirmed the previous results obtained by COLIPA. Across all laboratories, higher UVAPF values were obtained on the high-roughness plates (P < 0.01). Reproducibility of UVAPF values between laboratories was comparable between the two plate roughness values (low roughness, COV = 8%; high roughness, COV = 12%). Considering the in vitro/in vivo comparisons, a regression slope of 0.83 was observed for the low-roughness plates, in comparison with a value of 1.05 for the high-roughness plates. The accuracy of the method was improved, therefore, with the use of the high-roughness plates. With a constraint to recommend the use of only one plate type in the COLIPA UVA in vitro Test, the high-roughness plate was selected on an on-going basis to limit variability of results and to provide better accuracy with in vivo data.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Moyal D,Alard V,Bertin C,Boyer F,Brown MW,Kolbe L,Matts P,Pissavini Mdoi
10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00748.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2013-02-01 00:00:00pages
35-40issue
1eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
35pub_type
杂志文章,多中心研究abstract：:Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12049
更新日期：2013-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
更新日期：2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00402.x
更新日期：2007-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:In this study, the influence of three cosmetically relevant, priorly characterized vehicles on skin hydration, sebum content and transepidermal water loss was investigated. The chosen vehicles included a liposomal pre-formulation, a multiple W/O/W emulsion and a microemulsion gel. The in vivo effects of these...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12180
更新日期：2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期：2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:There is an increasing demand in general population regarding skin healthiness and improvement of aesthetical appearance, indicating that people require more information about how to treat healthy skin and to prevent skin disease. This study is the result of a campaign on healthy skin organized by the International So...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00287.x
更新日期：2005-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12665
更新日期：2020-10-10 00:00:00
abstract：:The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期：2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期：2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to determine the optimal conditions, that is the content of hemp oil and time of homogenization to obtain stable dispersion systems. METHODS:For this purpose, six emulsions were prepared, their stability was examined empirically and the most correctly formulated emulsion composition ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12211
更新日期：2015-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to perform short-term sensory testing and instrumental (conductivity and rheological) characterization of a fast inverted oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion base, also known as a SWOP (Switch-Oil-Phase) emulsion, and reference o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion bases under various testing ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12282
更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Hyaluronan (HA) plays a role in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In addition, HA has been shown to have different biological activities depending on its molecular weight. It has been reported that HA-mediated CD44 activation regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Therefore, the aim of this stu...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12105
更新日期：2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The viscosity of cosmetic emulsions is of great practical importance and related to their skin feel. To achieve a desirable and constant viscosity is not an easy task because numerous factors must be considered. Based on theoretical considerations a new surfactant, steareth-5-stearate, has been developed. It ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00546.x
更新日期：1991-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期：1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Wound healing involves the activity of epithelial cells and fibroblasts. This process is particularly accompanied by an increase in the proliferative capacity of the fibroblasts and by the biosynthesis of constitutive proteins of connective tissue. To study the action of wound healing drugs on the growth of f...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00358.x
更新日期：1984-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期：2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron mic...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00362.x
更新日期：2007-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期：1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis An O/W/O multiple emulsion was formulated using almond oil as the inner phase and liquid paraffin as the outer phase. The properties of the formulation ingredients were explored: effect of the type of primary emulsifier, and the nature and concentration of the secondary emulsifier. The volume fraction of the ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00077.x
更新日期：1994-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis A rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengt...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00002.x
更新日期：1988-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期：2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In recent years the importance of sphingolipids (cerebrosides, sphingomyelin, ceramides, sphingosine-1-phospate, etc.) in skin biology is receiving an increasing interest. Not only are ceramides essential for the barrier function of the skin, especially through their phytosphingosine, sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingos...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00394.x
更新日期：2007-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis We have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically s...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00535.x
更新日期：1990-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期：1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were te...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12459
更新日期：2018-04-20 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacit...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12198
更新日期：2015-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS:The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analysed at the molecular level using Ram...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12429
更新日期：2018-02-01 00:00:00
