Abstract：
OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new approach for a reproducible and correlated in vitro test method to obtain results similar to the in vivo SPF for labelling purposes. METHODS:The currently used in vitro test is based on the spectroradiometric measurement of the residual ultraviolet (UV) transmitted through a thin layer of sunscreen spread on a substrate. To reach the goals of reproducibility and accuracy, the specifications of the key parameters and different steps of the procedure are clearly described in this study. RESULTS:Once reproducibility is obtained with an ad hoc procedure, the accuracy of the SPF values for a large number of products can be demonstrated with the prerequisite of a single UV irradiation dose and a multisubstrate solution. Using a total of 27 samples, the mean coefficient of variation was found to be <10% and the coefficient of correlation with the SPF clinical value reached approximately 0.81. CONCLUSION:The first part of the article revealed a relevant tool for the in vitro SPF assessment that can be closely correlated to the in vivo SPF for labelling purposes. The second part study will focus on the practical aspects and implementation (Part II) achieved using the present method, will validate the robustness of the models and demonstrate the need to have different product categories to reach a reliable in vitro SPF method adaptable for all products available in the market.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Miksa S,Lutz D,Guy Cdoi
10.1111/ics.12226subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2015-12-01 00:00:00pages
555-66issue
6eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
37pub_type
杂志文章,评审abstract：:Synopsis A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00229.x
更新日期：1979-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Lecithin has an antioxidative potential that depends directly on the content of phospholipids. Purified lecithin with a higher phospholipid content exerts better antioxidative properties. Furthermore, due to its specific physico-chemical properties, amphiphility in particular, the phospholipid the largest portion of t...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x
更新日期：1999-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00402.x
更新日期：2007-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Glutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non-invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00555.x
更新日期：1991-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The present investigation is based on the formulation of water-in-oil (w/o) cream preparations of ascorbic acid (AA) at pH 4-6 using different emollients and humectants. METHODS:The preparations were stored in the dark at 30°C for a period of 3 months and were studied for their chemical and physical stabilit...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12152
更新日期：2014-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The viscosity of cosmetic emulsions is of great practical importance and related to their skin feel. To achieve a desirable and constant viscosity is not an easy task because numerous factors must be considered. Based on theoretical considerations a new surfactant, steareth-5-stearate, has been developed. It ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00546.x
更新日期：1991-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to establish a comparative analysis of the chemical and enzymatic stability of α- and β-arbutins as potential sources of the substance of concern hydroquinone (HQ). The study was performed using an array of techniques including HPLC-PDA, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and optical r...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12275
更新日期：2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期：1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many cosmetics contain keratolytic hydroxy acids to correct the effects of photoageing on human skin. Although methods exist for quantifying the alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid in aqueous media, accurate methods for quantification in mixed hydrophobic and aqueous cosmetic creams and lotions are lacking. Glycolic aci...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00128.x
更新日期：2002-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contac...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.x
更新日期：2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期：1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis We have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically s...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00535.x
更新日期：1990-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期：1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12392
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12567
更新日期：2019-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期：1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Ageing leads to characteristic changes in the appearance of facial skin. Among these changes, we can distinguish the skin topographic cues (skin sagging and wrinkles), the dark spots and the dark circles around the eyes. Although skin changes are similar in Caucasian and Chinese faces, the age of occurrence ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12128
更新日期：2014-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期：2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness. Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that s...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1983.tb00329.x
更新日期：1983-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期：1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Oil/water (o/w) microemulsions containing propranolol were studied. Isopropylmyristate was used as the oil, Tween 60 as a surfactant, butanol as a co-surfactant and a buffer of pH 6.5 for the continuous phase. The lipophilicity of propranolol was enhanced by formation of lipophilic ion-pairs to obtain a dispe...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00026.x
更新日期：1988-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The synthesis of 5-alkoxy and 5-aryloxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-ones by reaction of (+)-5-hydroxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-one with a number of saturated or unsaturated alcohols and phenols in order to check how substituents affected the fragrance, is des...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00108.x
更新日期：1995-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期：1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Liposomes are commonly used in cosmetic formulations to increase the bioavailability of active ingredients. We have previously shown that polysaccharide coating of liposomes improves their resistance to surfactants and electrolytes. In the current study, we have assessed the impact of coating on the skin pen...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12394
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cutaneous irritation is a stereotyped response of the skin to any physical or chemical insult. Its main manifestations encompass inflammatory erythema and an alteration of the cutaneous microrelief showing increased roughness, dehydration and erratic desquamation. Several instrumental methods can indirectly assess the...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00170.x
更新日期：2003-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Reconstructed human epidermis models (RHE) constitute an innovative alternative to study phototoxicity and photoprotection in the cosmetic industry. However, little information is currently available concerning the harmful effects of solar-simulated radiation (SSR) in these in vitro skin models. In this study, the pho...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00506.x
更新日期：2009-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The phase diagrams were determined of lactic and isohexanoic hydroxy acids as well as salicylic acid with water, a non-ionic surfactant and a paraffinic oil to outline the influence of the hydroxy acids on the structure in a model for a skin lotion. The results showed the influence of the acid to be similar to that of...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00212.x
更新日期：2004-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and o...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00428.x
更新日期：2008-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00
