Abstract:
:Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and out. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is the first commercially available technique that provides a non-invasive, in vivo method to determine depth profiles of water concentration in the skin, however, in this case it was applied in an in vitro setting. As the first phase of validating the usefulness of confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we used porcine skin as a surrogate for human skin. Water concentration profiles were obtained using confocal Raman microspectroscopy from isolated pigskin SC and compared with that using the Karl Fischer titration method. The two methods correlated very well with a regression coefficient of 1.07 as well as a correlation coefficient, R(2) = 0.989, which demonstrated the consistency and accuracy of confocal Raman microspectroscopy for water concentration determination. To evaluate the instrument's response to different skin care/cleansing products, a wide range of products were tested to compare their skin moisturization ability. Among those tested were a lotion, commercial soap bar, syndet bar, traditional non-emollient shower gel (water, Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine system) and emollient containing shower gel (water, sunflower oil, SLES, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycerin, petrolatum). The results were consistent with what was expected. The water content on skin treated with (A) lotion was significantly higher than the non-treated control; (B) syndet bar-treated skin had a significantly higher water content than soap-based bar-treated sites; (C) non-emollient shower gel washed sites were more moisturized than soap-based bar-treated samples; and (D) emollient shower gel-treated skin was significantly more hydrated than non-emollient shower gel washed skin. The unique and direct quantitative water content information provided by confocal Raman microspectroscopy offers a whole new perspective for fundamental skin moisturization studies and will play an important role in evaluating moisturizing profiles and the hydration potential of products designed for personal care in the cosmetic industry.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Wu J,Polefka TGdoi
10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00428.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2008-02-01 00:00:00pages
47-56issue
1eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS428journal_volume
30pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12039
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Wound healing involves the activity of epithelial cells and fibroblasts. This process is particularly accompanied by an increase in the proliferative capacity of the fibroblasts and by the biosynthesis of constitutive proteins of connective tissue. To study the action of wound healing drugs on the growth of f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00358.x
更新日期:1984-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to perform short-term sensory testing and instrumental (conductivity and rheological) characterization of a fast inverted oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion base, also known as a SWOP (Switch-Oil-Phase) emulsion, and reference o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion bases under various testing ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12282
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00744.x
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Mechanical analysis of human hair may provide the dermatologists with several markers of considerable diagnostic importance. The aim of this study was to analyse the physical and mechanical properties of Tunisian women's hair. METHODS:Surface characteristics were determined with scanning electron microscopy...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12313
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期:2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing gamma linolenic acid. In human dry skin the usual fatty aci...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00014.x
更新日期:1988-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Glutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non-invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00555.x
更新日期:1991-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An investigation has been carried out into the synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts of triglycerides. The aim of this work was to produce such compounds without breaking the triglyceride skeleton. The reaction of chloracetyl chloride with the triglyceride of ricinoleic acid which is the major constituent (8...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00560.x
更新日期:1991-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids hav...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12404
更新日期:2017-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to establish a comparative analysis of the chemical and enzymatic stability of α- and β-arbutins as potential sources of the substance of concern hydroquinone (HQ). The study was performed using an array of techniques including HPLC-PDA, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and optical r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12275
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期:1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期:2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:We investigated the association of psychosocial problems, menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes, and trends of smoking and use of cosmetics in our previous study. In this follow-up study, we researched psychiatric disorders and psychosocial problems in menopausal women. METHODS:We designed a cohort study w...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12081
更新日期:2013-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12294
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been i...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00080.x
更新日期:2001-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS:The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analysed at the molecular level using Ram...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12429
更新日期:2018-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengt...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00002.x
更新日期:1988-04-01 00:00:00