Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone in whitening cosmetic products using high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD). In addition, we investigated the effects of high temperature and pH on the decomposition of arbutin. METHODS:Samples extracted using two-step sonications were separated on a C18 column using a gradient mobile phase consisting of water and methanol. A 60-mm (40 μL) DAD cell was used to enhance the sensitivity of hydroquinone determination. Thermal decomposition of arbutin was evaluated at temperatures ranging from 60 to 120°C for 1-36 h. RESULTS:The method showed good linearity (R(2) ≥ 0.9997), precision (relative standard deviation, RSD < 5%) and acceptable extraction recovery (90-102.6%). The limits of quantitation for arbutin and hydroquinone were 0.0085 and 0.0119 μg mL(-1) , respectively. One sample of 21 cosmetic products tested contained arbutin at a concentration 1.61 g 100 g(-1) cream and 0.12 g 100 g(-1) cream of hydroquinone. Arbutin (327.18 ppm) decomposed after 6 h at 120°C and produced 10.73 ppm of hydroquinone. CONCLUSION:The developed method is simple to detect both arbutin and hydroquinone simultaneously in cosmetic products, at an adequate level of sensitivity. Notably, temperature and pH did not influence the decomposition of arbutin to hydroquinone in a 2% arbutin cream.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Jeon JS,Kim BH,Lee SH,Kwon HJ,Bae HJ,Kim SK,Park JA,Shim JH,Abd El-Aty AM,Shin HCdoi
10.1111/ics.12228subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2015-12-01 00:00:00pages
567-73issue
6eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
37pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis In this study a compact, hand-held, solid state erythema meter using light emitting diodes is described. This device has been constructed and used to compare with visual assessments of ultraviolet radiation in human subjects. A statistically significant correlation was obtained between erythema index and visu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00521.x
更新日期:1990-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12294
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12049
更新日期:2013-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) is an extracellular enzyme that catalyses the cross-linking between microfibrils and tropoelastin (TE), thereby ensuring elastic fibre functionality. With ageing, LOXL expression decreases, thus participating in the loss of skin elasticity. In a previous study, we showed that a dill seed extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00606.x
更新日期:2011-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.x
更新日期:2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期:1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The causative substances for axillary osmidrosis, which are often found in apocrine sweat, are the decomposed/denatured products of short-chain fatty acid and other biological metabolite compounds produced by axillary-resident bacteria. Conventional underarm deodorants suppress the process of odour production mostly b...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00322.x
更新日期:2006-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::In recent years the importance of sphingolipids (cerebrosides, sphingomyelin, ceramides, sphingosine-1-phospate, etc.) in skin biology is receiving an increasing interest. Not only are ceramides essential for the barrier function of the skin, especially through their phytosphingosine, sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingos...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00394.x
更新日期:2007-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The vapour pressures of phenethyl alcohol and limonene in their water-in-oil microemulsion region were measured by head space gas chromatography of equilibrated samples. The results showed that the vapour pressure of both fragrance compounds in their mutual solutions without surfactant or water was significantly great...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.177054.x
更新日期:1998-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Reconstructed human epidermis models (RHE) constitute an innovative alternative to study phototoxicity and photoprotection in the cosmetic industry. However, little information is currently available concerning the harmful effects of solar-simulated radiation (SSR) in these in vitro skin models. In this study, the pho...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00506.x
更新日期:2009-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Equol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed. METHODS:Sixty-four participants were divided in ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12408
更新日期:2017-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this study was to determine how worthwhile it would be to combine a newly developed topical slimming product with customized dietary habits not based on calorie restriction, so as to improve the cellulite appearance of the skin. At the beginning of the study, a nutritionist recorded the dietary habits of ea...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00630.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00205.x
更新日期:1979-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12042
更新日期:2013-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The synthesis of 5-alkoxy and 5-aryloxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-ones by reaction of (+)-5-hydroxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-one with a number of saturated or unsaturated alcohols and phenols in order to check how substituents affected the fragrance, is des...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00108.x
更新日期:1995-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous irritation is a stereotyped response of the skin to any physical or chemical insult. Its main manifestations encompass inflammatory erythema and an alteration of the cutaneous microrelief showing increased roughness, dehydration and erratic desquamation. Several instrumental methods can indirectly assess the...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00170.x
更新日期:2003-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human me...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12002
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine whether the coordination environment of copper in hair is affected by the shampoo used. METHODS:Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy to discriminate between mixed oxygen/nitrogen and mixed oxygen/sulphur coordination of copper after treatment with two different shampoos. RESULTS:C...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12178
更新日期:2015-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Several treatments for skin whitening are available today, but few of them are completely adequate, especially owing to the carcinogenic potential attributed to classical drugs like hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. To provide an alternative and safer technology for whitening, we developed two botanical compounds ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00736.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00