Abstract：
:Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitating the removal of sebum and skin soils, have a propensity to disrupt bilayer lipids by extracting endogenous skin lipids or intercalating into the bilayer. Disrupted SC lipids are associated with a variety of pathological skin conditions, as well as with dry skin induced by harsh cleansing. In an attempt to preserve the barrier and mitigate the damage caused by frequent normal cleansing, the incorporation of physiologically relevant lipids into skin cleansers has become common in leading cleansing products. It has been noted that fatty acids are more susceptible to surfactant-induced removal than other lipids (eg, ceramides), an observation that may form the basis for a critically important strategy for replenishing SC lipids. This review will focus on the role of fatty acids in the structure and function of the SC, and the rationale for incorporation of stearic acid into moisturizing body cleansers to minimize their extraction by surfactants and replenish lost fatty acids to promote skin barrier preservation.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Ananthapadmanabhan KP,Mukherjee S,Chandar Pdoi
10.1111/ics.12042subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2013-08-01 00:00:00pages
337-45issue
4eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
35pub_type
杂志文章,评审abstract：OBJECTIVE:Several studies have shown that a deterioration of skin properties, an impaired cutaneous microcirculatory function and an imbalance of autonomic nervous activity are observed in smokers and in patients with diabetes mellitus or Raynaud's phenomenon. These observations suggest that skin properties are associa...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12373
更新日期：2017-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Nowadays, flavonoids are present in many cosmetic formulations, mainly in the form of plant extracts. The main reason of still increasing popularity of these substances is their beneficial biochemical activity. The main factor affecting activity of flavonoids in the skin is their skin penetration ability. The studies ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00166.x
更新日期：2002-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) is an extracellular enzyme that catalyses the cross-linking between microfibrils and tropoelastin (TE), thereby ensuring elastic fibre functionality. With ageing, LOXL expression decreases, thus participating in the loss of skin elasticity. In a previous study, we showed that a dill seed extr...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00606.x
更新日期：2011-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was de...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x
更新日期：1985-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12039
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期：1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期：2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Invol...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1111/ics.12505
更新日期：2019-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期：2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期：1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期：2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Ageing leads to characteristic changes in the appearance of facial skin. Among these changes, we can distinguish the skin topographic cues (skin sagging and wrinkles), the dark spots and the dark circles around the eyes. Although skin changes are similar in Caucasian and Chinese faces, the age of occurrence ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12128
更新日期：2014-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期：2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期：2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Dandruff is characterized by a flaky, pruritic scalp and affects up to half the world's population post-puberty. The aetiology of dandruff is multifactorial, influenced by Malassezia, sebum production and individual susceptibility. The commensal yeast Malassezia is a strong contributory factor to dandruff formation, b...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00723.x
更新日期：2012-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期：2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期：2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract：:Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been i...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00080.x
更新日期：2001-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contac...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.x
更新日期：2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期：2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00423.x
更新日期：1985-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:This study focused on the formulation of lamellar lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) loaded with mulberry stem extract (MSE). METHODS:The LLC formulation tested used two oils: n-dodecane or tridecyl salicylate, a co-solvent (propylene glycol) and a single (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) or mixed surfactant system. The ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12116
更新日期：2014-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00744.x
更新日期：2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期：2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.x
更新日期：1998-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期：2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期：2005-04-01 00:00:00
