Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (terephthalate) and free radical photoyellowing, were used. These methods utilized different UV sources and reaction conditions, and so can give insights into the different mechanisms of action occurring during UV oxidation of hair. In addition, this study demonstrates how antioxidants and chelators can be screened to determine whether they can protect hair from UV damage. RESULTS:The three methods gave somewhat different results, illustrating the importance of reaction conditions and wavelength on the photochemical mechanisms, and the efficacy of additives to influence these reactions. EPR results showed that N-acetylcysteine (NAC) pre-treatment eliminated the intensity of the signal because of sulphur and carbon free radicals in white hair both before and after exposure to UVB radiation. Doping the hair with copper ions had no effect on the intensity of the EPR signal under dry conditions. Terephthalate fluorescent probe data showed that under wet conditions, irradiation of white hair with UVA produced significant amounts of hydroxyl radicals. Pre-treatment of hair with NAC reduced the number of •OH radicals produced by natural white hair compared to an untreated control. In contrast to the EPR result, white hair doped with copper ions produced significantly higher levels of •OH radicals under wet conditions. It appears that the ability of copper ions to catalyse the photogeneration free radicals in hair is highly dependent on water content. Photoyellowing data showed a benefit for oxalic acid but no difference for NAC and an increase in yellowing for EDTA. CONCLUSION:The micro-EPR and terephthalate fluorescent probe methods are both effective techniques to study production of free radicals by hair exposed to UV light under wet and dry conditions, respectively. Both assays are simple methods for determining the effectiveness of potential protective hair treatments against UV damage, but because they assess free radical damage under dry vs wet conditions, the chemistry created on UV exposure is different. This gives insights into mechanism of action, but results may not be consistent between the two methods for actives added for reduction of UV damage. NAC pre-treatment did reduce free radical generation in UV-exposed hair under both wet and dry conditions. Photoyellowing data are more complicated as it is a less direct measure of UV damage and is highly dependent on irradiation source. Using UVB irradiation is experimentally convenient but may not be appropriate, because UVB wavelengths comprise only 0.3% of terrestrial sunlight. The photochemistry of hair exposed to sunlight involves concurrent photobleaching and photoyellowing processes and is far more complex. Under UVB irradiation conditions, oxalic acid showed a yellowing benefit. OBJECTIF:Étudier les effets de l’ajout d’un métal redox, d’un cuivre, d’antioxydants et de chélateurs de métaux sur la formation de radicaux libres dans les cheveux naturels blancs de Caucasiens, exposés par la suite à des rayons à ultraviolets. Trois méthodes différentes, la résonance paramagnétique électronique (RPE), une sonde fluorescente pour la formation de radicaux hydroxyles (téréphtalate) et le photojaunissement dû aux radicaux libres ont été utilisées. Ces méthodes ont utilisé différentes sources d’UV et de conditions de réaction, et peuvent par conséquent donner un aperçu des différents mécanismes d’action qui se produisent lors de l’oxydation des cheveux aux UV. Par ailleurs, cette étude montre comment les antioxydants et les chélateurs peuvent être analysés en vue de déterminer s’ils peuvent protéger les cheveux contre les dommages causés par les UV. RÉSULTATS: Les trois méthodes ont donné des résultats quelque peu différents, ce qui illustre l’importance des conditions de réaction et de la longueur d’onde sur les mécanismes photochimiques, ainsi que l’efficacité des additifs influençant ces réactions. Les résultats de la RPE ont montré que le traitement préalable par N-acétylcystéine (NAC) éliminait l’intensité du signal en raison de la présence du soufre et des radicaux libres de carbone dans les cheveux blancs, avant et après l’exposition aux rayons UVB. Le dopage des cheveux avec des ions de cuivre n’a eu aucun effet sur l’intensité du signal RPE en condition sèche. Les données des sondes fluorescentes de téréphtalate ont montré qu’en conditions humides, l’irradiation des cheveux blancs avec des UVA produisait d’importantes quantités de radicaux hydroxyles. Le traitement préalable des cheveux par N-acétylcystéine a réduit le nombre de radicaux hydroxyles produits par les cheveux blancs naturels comparé à un témoin non traité. Contrairement au résultat de la RPE, les cheveux blancs dopés avec des ions de cuivre ont produit des concentrations beaucoup plus élevées de radicaux hydroxyles en conditions humides. Il apparaît que la capacité des ions de cuivre à catalyser les radicaux libres photogénérés dans les cheveux dépend fortement de la teneur en eau. Les données relatives au photojaunissement ont démontré un avantage pour l’acide oxalique, aucune différence pour la N-acétylcystéine et une augmentation du jaunissement pour l’EDTA. CONCLUSION:Les méthodes de sonde fluorescente micro-RPE et téréphtalate sont deux techniques efficaces d’étude de la production de radicaux libres sur les cheveux exposés aux rayons ultraviolets en conditions humides et sèches, respectivement. Les deux tests sont des méthodes simples pour déterminer l’efficacité d’éventuels traitements de protection contre les dommages causés par les UV, mais étant donné qu’ils évaluent les dommages causés par les radicaux libres dans des conditions sèches ou humides, la réaction chimique créée lors de l’exposition aux UV est différente. Cela permet de mieux comprendre le mécanisme d’action, mais les résultats peuvent ne pas être cohérents entre les deux méthodes en raison des substances actives ajoutées pour réduire les dommages causés par les UV. Le traitement préalable par N-acétylcystéine a réduit la génération de radicaux libres dans les cheveux exposés aux UV en conditions humides et sèches. Les données de photojaunissement sont plus complexes, étant donné qu’il s’agit d’une mesure moins directe des dommages causés par les UV et qu’elles dépendent fortement de la source d’irradiation. L’utilisation de l’irradiation aux UVB est convenable d’un point de vue expérimental, mais peut ne pas être appropriée, car les longueurs d’onde UVB ne représentent que 0,3 % du rayonnement solaire terrestre. La photochimie de cheveux exposés à la lumière du soleil implique des processus de photoblanchiment et de photojaunissement concomitants, et est bien plus complexe. Dans des conditions d’irradiation aux UVB, l’acide oxalique a présenté un avantage en matière de jaunissement.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Millington KR,Marsh JMdoi
10.1111/ics.12601subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2020-04-01 00:00:00pages
174-184issue
2eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
42pub_type
杂志文章abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS:The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analysed at the molecular level using Ram...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12429
更新日期:2018-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.x
更新日期:2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期:2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human me...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12002
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS:Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12383
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary A new instrument has been developed which enables simultaneous determinations of the static and dynamic moduli of elasticity of the stratum corneum to be made. A systematic study of these mechanical parameters for various samples of human SC demonstrates the advantages of the dynamic measurement of the modulus...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00321.x
更新日期:1982-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期:1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Reduction and prevention of health care-associated infections is a worldwide priority with emphasis on increasing hand hygiene compliance. Repetitive exposure to hand hygiene products and procedures is a significant factor in the development of occupational irritant hand dermatitis. Compliance has been difficult to ac...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00733.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In recent years the importance of sphingolipids (cerebrosides, sphingomyelin, ceramides, sphingosine-1-phospate, etc.) in skin biology is receiving an increasing interest. Not only are ceramides essential for the barrier function of the skin, especially through their phytosphingosine, sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingos...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00394.x
更新日期:2007-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes found in various tissues of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus) and other species of Bromeliaceae. Owing to its proteolytic activity, bromelain has been used in the food, medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for its cell renewal, anti-ageing, whiteni...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12308
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacit...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12198
更新日期:2015-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti-redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12559
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12665
更新日期:2020-10-10 00:00:00
abstract::Body odours are generated from dead skin cells and secreted materials, such as sweat and sebum, through the metabolism of microorganisms living on the skin. Volatile steroids, key compounds in body odours, are also generated through the metabolism of microorganisms. These volatile steroids strengthen the intensity of ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00297.x
更新日期:2006-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An historical reference is followed by a review of cosmetic colours' regulations based on the EEC Directive with particular reference to the U.K. Cosmetic Products Regulations and their effect on formulation. ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00217.x
更新日期:1979-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been i...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00080.x
更新日期:2001-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the past few years, the hair follicle has started revealing its beauty and mysteries. The existence of a growth and regeneration cycle, together with a unique tissue organization and complex regulatory network, make it a true paradigm of tissue homeostasis and dermal-epithelial crosstalk. In this brief review, I wi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00109.x
更新日期:2002-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期:1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids hav...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12404
更新日期:2017-10-01 00:00:00