Abstract:
:Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was called 'the two hennas'. The traditional dermatological uses of C. obovata concern the henna component. The antibacterial activity of C. obovata (Table III) may explain these uses. Thin layer chromatographs showed that several C. obovata components are fixed to keratin (Table IV). The fixation hypothesis is given in Fig. 8. Bleached hair and, to a lesser extent, light (and white) hairs, turned golden light-brown or brown differing with the time of treatment. The hair absorbs the C. obovata components. In the initial stages uptake was linear with the square root of time, indicative of a diffusion process. In bleached hair diffusion is fast (7.5% uptake in 9 h), but there was no diffusion in dark hair. The sorption by hair pre-treated by hydrogen peroxide was greater than virgin hair, suggesting that the C. obovata components were chemically bound to the cysteic function of keratin. The initial 'uptake jump' suggests that the diffusion process was biphasic and/or several components diffused. The henna (Lawsonia inermis) seemed to enhance the penetration of C. obovata components. The hair treated by C. obovara became less hydrophilic: the water sorption of bleached hair decreased by 25%. The stress-strain curves and torsion-breaking of individual hairs, after drastic C. obovata treatment, showcd the mechanical properties of the treated hair were not very changed, but the hair was more heterogeneous. Microphotography showed that, after the drastic treatment, the hair seemed unaltered, but the cuticle scales were little opened. The C. obovata treatment crimps the hair. As a sunscreen, which is bound to keratin, C. obovata components provide ultraviolet protection.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Forestier JPdoi
10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
1981-10-01 00:00:00pages
211-26issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS211journal_volume
3pub_type
杂志文章abstract:BACKGROUND:In order to comply with the European legislation concerning the risk assessment of skin sensitizers, considerable progress has been made in developing alternative methods, such as human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). H-CLAT is based on cytometric measurement of fluorescence emitted by anti-CD54 and anti...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12530
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12459
更新日期:2018-04-20 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The vapour pressures of phenethyl alcohol and limonene in their water-in-oil microemulsion region were measured by head space gas chromatography of equilibrated samples. The results showed that the vapour pressure of both fragrance compounds in their mutual solutions without surfactant or water was significantly great...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.177054.x
更新日期:1998-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Equol has been shown to improve skin health and regeneration, due to its antioxidative, phytoestrogenic and epigenetic characteristics. The effects of a topical intervention on skin structure, telomere length and epigenetic markers in skin cells were analysed. METHODS:Sixty-four participants were divided in ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12408
更新日期:2017-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期:2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Hyaluronan (HA) plays a role in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In addition, HA has been shown to have different biological activities depending on its molecular weight. It has been reported that HA-mediated CD44 activation regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Therefore, the aim of this stu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12105
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The study of ternary systems leads to the understanding of the physico-chemical aspect and allows the contribution of the different components to a cosmetic formulation to be developed. The present investigation was centred in the zone of transparent get belonging to a previously studied ternary system contai...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00490.x
更新日期:1989-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00205.x
更新日期:1979-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well established that the evaporation of sweat from the human body surface is the main mechanism by which heat balance is maintained following a rise in body core temperature. Since the introduction of the first brand name antiperspirant in the United States during the early 1900s, antiperspirant products design...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00184.x
更新日期:2003-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期:2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期:2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00229.x
更新日期:1979-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human me...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12002
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sweat and skin surface pH are critical parameters in determining the performance of antiperspirants. The mechanism of action, the so-called 'plug theory' first proposed by Reller and Luedders, involves the expression of eccrine sweat onto the surface of the skin into which the solid antiperspirant salts, typically an ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00092.x
更新日期:2001-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Dandruff is characterized by a flaky, pruritic scalp and affects up to half the world's population post-puberty. The aetiology of dandruff is multifactorial, influenced by Malassezia, sebum production and individual susceptibility. The commensal yeast Malassezia is a strong contributory factor to dandruff formation, b...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
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更新日期:2012-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (2HP-beta-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x
更新日期:1999-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lecithin has an antioxidative potential that depends directly on the content of phospholipids. Purified lecithin with a higher phospholipid content exerts better antioxidative properties. Furthermore, due to its specific physico-chemical properties, amphiphility in particular, the phospholipid the largest portion of t...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x
更新日期:1999-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The hydroglycolic (HG) extract from 70% propylene glycol (PG) extraction of myrobalan fruits showed the most appreciable antioxidant efficiency towards 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in comparison to the extracts from 30, 50, 70 and 100% ethyl alcohol (EA), and 30, 50 and 100% PG . Its total polyphenols were als...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00642.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00