Abstract:
:The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12-week vehicle-controlled clinical study, the skin-lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a Rumex occidentalis extract and sunscreens (SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 Indian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) Chroma Meter® measurement (L*, a*, b*) and Individual Typology Angle (ITA˚) calculation and (B) Visual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L* and ITA˚ compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L* and ITA˚ measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15-containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin-lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and Rumex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin-lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Merinville E,Byrne AJ,Visdal-Johnsen L,Bouvry G,Gillbro JM,Rawlings AV,Laloeuf Adoi
10.1111/ics.12002subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2012-12-01 00:00:00pages
575-81issue
6eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
34pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The present investigation is based on the formulation of water-in-oil (w/o) cream preparations of ascorbic acid (AA) at pH 4-6 using different emollients and humectants. METHODS:The preparations were stored in the dark at 30°C for a period of 3 months and were studied for their chemical and physical stabilit...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12152
更新日期:2014-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期:2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The phase diagrams were determined of lactic and isohexanoic hydroxy acids as well as salicylic acid with water, a non-ionic surfactant and a paraffinic oil to outline the influence of the hydroxy acids on the structure in a model for a skin lotion. The results showed the influence of the acid to be similar to that of...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00212.x
更新日期:2004-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Oil/water (o/w) microemulsions containing propranolol were studied. Isopropylmyristate was used as the oil, Tween 60 as a surfactant, butanol as a co-surfactant and a buffer of pH 6.5 for the continuous phase. The lipophilicity of propranolol was enhanced by formation of lipophilic ion-pairs to obtain a dispe...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00026.x
更新日期:1988-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well established that the evaporation of sweat from the human body surface is the main mechanism by which heat balance is maintained following a rise in body core temperature. Since the introduction of the first brand name antiperspirant in the United States during the early 1900s, antiperspirant products design...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00184.x
更新日期:2003-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sun exposure during leisure activity evokes fatigue. We employed the Advanced Trail Making Test (ATMT), a recently developed objective method of evaluating brain function performance used to measure mental fatigue, for objective determination of fatigue development caused by solar exposure to the human body. First, a ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.0142-5463.2004.00200.x
更新日期:2004-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the permeation of liquiritigenin (LQG) and liquiritin (LQ) as licorice flavonoids into the skin, we prepared ceramide liposome-in-cellulose hydrogel complex system. METHODS:Liposome-in-hydrogel complex systems were developed by incorporating ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogels by the swellin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12156
更新日期:2014-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengt...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00002.x
更新日期:1988-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期:2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期:1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期:1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,多中心研究
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00748.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contac...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.x
更新日期:2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期:1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Several types of human tests are used widely for the evaluation of cosmetics including single patch tests, in-use tests, human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT). However, there is no clear and well-defined publi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12095
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00