Abstract:
:The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chroma C* representing the squamometry index. Four main variants of squamometry index have been designed so far. Squamometry X refers to the assessment of xerosis and any scaly condition. Squamometry L explores the intercorneocyte cohesiveness impaired by ultraviolet light. Squamometry R evaluates stratum corneum renewal and squamometry S assesses the effect of surfactants on corneocyte integrity. This latter variant is related to, although not similar to, the ex-vivo corneosurfametry bioassay. All squamometry tests are rapid, reliable, sensitive and cheap.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Piérard-Franchimont C,Henry F,Piérard GEsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2000-12-01 00:00:00pages
437-46issue
6eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS039journal_volume
22pub_type
杂志文章abstract::The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期:2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengt...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00002.x
更新日期:1988-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Molecular chaperone, heat shock proteins (HSPs), stabilizes intracellular processes of cells under stress. Little is known about the role of molecular chaperone proteins in the skin pathology, rejuvenation and wound healing, or whether their expression is altered by environmental and physiological stress to the skin o...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00601.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::On a daily basis, the skin is exposed to many environmental stressors and insults. Over a 24-h natural cycle, during the day, the skin is focused on protection; while at night, the skin is focused on repairing damage that occurred during daytime and getting ready for the next morning. Circadian rhythm provides the pre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12572
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Acne vulgaris suppresses an individual's self-confidence by causing distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期:1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Nowadays, flavonoids are present in many cosmetic formulations, mainly in the form of plant extracts. The main reason of still increasing popularity of these substances is their beneficial biochemical activity. The main factor affecting activity of flavonoids in the skin is their skin penetration ability. The studies ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00166.x
更新日期:2002-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The purpose of this work was to compare the evolution of three multiple emulsions (ME) by different controls. The series of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were elaborated and controlled by both the usual analyses which permitted the classification of the multiple emulsions with respect to th...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00069.x
更新日期:1993-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H(2)O(2)) or reductive (HSO(3)Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microcmulsions with H(2)O(2) or NaSO(3)H ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00404.x
更新日期:1985-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:A comprehensive methodology for the simultaneous determination of 15 multiclass organic UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics was developed using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS/MS). METHODS:Sunscreen cosmetics of various matrices,...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12387
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The viscosity of cosmetic emulsions is of great practical importance and related to their skin feel. To achieve a desirable and constant viscosity is not an easy task because numerous factors must be considered. Based on theoretical considerations a new surfactant, steareth-5-stearate, has been developed. It ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00546.x
更新日期:1991-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,多中心研究
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00748.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been i...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00080.x
更新日期:2001-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期:2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Wound healing involves the activity of epithelial cells and fibroblasts. This process is particularly accompanied by an increase in the proliferative capacity of the fibroblasts and by the biosynthesis of constitutive proteins of connective tissue. To study the action of wound healing drugs on the growth of f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00358.x
更新日期:1984-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The dichlorophenyl-imidazoldioxolan elubiol is used for skin and hair care in subjects with oily skin or dandruff. A study was conducted in 14 men to evaluate by non-invasive methods the effect of long-term use of elubiol on the sebum output at the skin surface. Measures were made using the Sebumeter SM810 an...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00152.x
更新日期:1996-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The synthesis of 5-alkoxy and 5-aryloxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-ones by reaction of (+)-5-hydroxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-one with a number of saturated or unsaturated alcohols and phenols in order to check how substituents affected the fragrance, is des...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00108.x
更新日期:1995-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期:1985-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00