Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to self-declarations (stinging, itching, warming and tightening), whereas three can be assessed by a dermatologist (skin dryness, redness and desquamation). Intensity and frequency or extent of these items were measured using 0-9 ordinal scales. To generate the data for validation of a new index based on the 7 items, a group of 49 subjects complaining of skin discomfort was followed up for 5 weeks: 1-week without product application to check reproducibility, followed by 4 weeks of treatment to evaluate sensitivity to change. Items not significantly reported at baseline or with changes because of treatment not sufficiently correlated with the overall change measured by the index were discarded. A control group of 49 subjects presenting no discomfort at all was also included to check the capacity of our index to discriminate both groups. The final index (Body Skin Discomfort Index, BSDI) was normalized to facilitate the clinical interpretation of the results. RESULTS:After discarding warming and skin redness, the BSDI is finally a five-dimension score calculated as follows: (TI + TF + SI + SF + ItI + ItF + DI + DE + DqI + DqE) 9 9/90 where T, S, It, D and Dq refer to tightness, stinging, itching, dryness, desquamation respectively, and I, F or E refers to intensity, frequency or extent. The final BSDI score displayed a good capacity to discriminate people with skin discomfort from people with 'normal skin', a good reproducibility (intraclass coefficient correlation ICC = 0.85) and a good sensitivity to detect change because of treatment (Difference vs. Baseline of 2.63 on a 0-9 scale). CONCLUSION:The developed index, BSDI, is a reliable way to address the measurement issue of the multidimensional skin discomfort syndrome. It thus should simplify the evaluation of cosmetic products effect and helps to compare products dedicated to body cleansing.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Segot-Chicq E,Salah S,Jullien M,Portal N,Deschodt C,Gagnebien Ddoi
10.1111/ics.12490subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2018-10-01 00:00:00pages
488-493issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
40pub_type
杂志文章abstract::The phase diagram water, phenethyl alcohol and laureth 4 was determined and the variation of the vapour pressure of the alcohol was determined during evaporation using gas chromatographic head-space analysis. The phase changes during evaporation were estimated from the phase diagram and compared to the appearance of t...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171722.x
更新日期:1997-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lecithin has an antioxidative potential that depends directly on the content of phospholipids. Purified lecithin with a higher phospholipid content exerts better antioxidative properties. Furthermore, due to its specific physico-chemical properties, amphiphility in particular, the phospholipid the largest portion of t...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x
更新日期:1999-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期:2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the permeation of liquiritigenin (LQG) and liquiritin (LQ) as licorice flavonoids into the skin, we prepared ceramide liposome-in-cellulose hydrogel complex system. METHODS:Liposome-in-hydrogel complex systems were developed by incorporating ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogels by the swellin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12156
更新日期:2014-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期:2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12294
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12459
更新日期:2018-04-20 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lower eyelid sags as well as wrinkles represent age-related morphological changes of the skin surface. However, a quantitative method to evaluate lower eyelid sagging has not been previously established. We designed a new quantitative evaluation method that uses non-invasive skin scanning, which is based on the differ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00282.x
更新日期:2005-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The purpose of this work was to compare the evolution of three multiple emulsions (ME) by different controls. The series of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were elaborated and controlled by both the usual analyses which permitted the classification of the multiple emulsions with respect to th...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00069.x
更新日期:1993-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Several treatments for skin whitening are available today, but few of them are completely adequate, especially owing to the carcinogenic potential attributed to classical drugs like hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. To provide an alternative and safer technology for whitening, we developed two botanical compounds ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00736.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Surface structure and surface mechanical properties of human hair have been characterized by atomic force microscopy in the imaging mode and by force vs. distance, F-d, analysis. The effects of treatment by commercial conditioner/shampoo or by aqueous exposure have been investigated. The cuticular structure has been i...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00080.x
更新日期:2001-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi-disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical ('medical') treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosm...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00741.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The vapour pressures of phenethyl alcohol and limonene in their water-in-oil microemulsion region were measured by head space gas chromatography of equilibrated samples. The results showed that the vapour pressure of both fragrance compounds in their mutual solutions without surfactant or water was significantly great...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.177054.x
更新日期:1998-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期:2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12567
更新日期:2019-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期:2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Reduction and prevention of health care-associated infections is a worldwide priority with emphasis on increasing hand hygiene compliance. Repetitive exposure to hand hygiene products and procedures is a significant factor in the development of occupational irritant hand dermatitis. Compliance has been difficult to ac...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00733.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12392
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期:1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An historical reference is followed by a review of cosmetic colours' regulations based on the EEC Directive with particular reference to the U.K. Cosmetic Products Regulations and their effect on formulation. ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00217.x
更新日期:1979-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12665
更新日期:2020-10-10 00:00:00