Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were tested by three test institutes using the current ISO24444:2010 In Vivo SPF Test Method and simultaneously by three separate test laboratories using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method, developed under the leadership of Cosmetics Europe (CE). The resulting relationship between in vitro SPF and in vivo SPF values was then compared with acceptance criteria developed recently by the International Standards (ISO) TC217/WG7 Sun Protection Test Methods Working Group. RESULTS:Analysis of the mean inter-laboratory in vitro and mean inter-institute in vivo SPF values revealed a strong correlation between in vitro and in vivo values, with a Pearson correlation coefficient of r2 = 0.88 (P < 0.0001), a slope of 1.01 and a non-significant intercept (-1.48; P = 0.62). When these data were compared to the new ISO WG7 acceptance criteria, method bias was found to be extremely low and over 95% of the coupled data lay within the model 'funnel' (defined by upper and lower confidence intervals). CONCLUSION:In conclusion, the results of blinded ring testing and comparison to new ISO WG7 acceptance criteria indicate that a new in vitro SPF test method meets (and exceeds) these minimum criteria and is an interesting candidate for possible deployment as an industry test methodology.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Pissavini M,Tricaud C,Wiener G,Lauer A,Contier M,Kolbe L,Trullás Cabanas C,Boyer F,Nollent V,Meredith E,Dietrich E,Matts PJdoi
10.1111/ics.12459subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2018-04-20 00:00:00eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x
更新日期:1999-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::The oxidative stress element of unhealthy scalp leads to compromised pre-emergent hair formation and poorly formed hair as it grows. Only cosmetic solutions can minimize the impact of unhealthy hair and to achieve healthy looking and feeling hair, the scalp health must be normalized first. The objectives of this resea...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,多中心研究,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12289
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contac...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.x
更新日期:2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00463.x
更新日期:1987-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was de...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x
更新日期:1985-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Body odours are generated from dead skin cells and secreted materials, such as sweat and sebum, through the metabolism of microorganisms living on the skin. Volatile steroids, key compounds in body odours, are also generated through the metabolism of microorganisms. These volatile steroids strengthen the intensity of ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00297.x
更新日期:2006-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary Nowadays, cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical forms must undergo many controls, i.e. in-process controls on the finished product and stability testing. The authors suggest using first derivative spectroscopy for active ingredients assay presenting an ultra-violet absorption. It offers the advantage of a direct ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00087.x
更新日期:1994-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12635
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The study of ternary systems leads to the understanding of the physico-chemical aspect and allows the contribution of the different components to a cosmetic formulation to be developed. The present investigation was centred in the zone of transparent get belonging to a previously studied ternary system contai...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00490.x
更新日期:1989-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期:2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS:Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12461
更新日期:2018-05-05 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:We investigated the association of psychosocial problems, menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes, and trends of smoking and use of cosmetics in our previous study. In this follow-up study, we researched psychiatric disorders and psychosocial problems in menopausal women. METHODS:We designed a cohort study w...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12081
更新日期:2013-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12294
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期:2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and o...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00428.x
更新日期:2008-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine whether the coordination environment of copper in hair is affected by the shampoo used. METHODS:Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy to discriminate between mixed oxygen/nitrogen and mixed oxygen/sulphur coordination of copper after treatment with two different shampoos. RESULTS:C...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12178
更新日期:2015-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:INTRODUCTION:We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS:The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12529
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00