Abstract：
:Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field of application. Depending on the melanocyte donor, the different phototypes (I-VI) as well as the racial specific pigmentation, caucasian, Asiatic or black epidermis can be reproduced in vitro. The reconstructed pigmented epidermis allows the evaluation of modulators of melanogenesis such as the depigmenting agent kojic acid. In contrast to conventional melanocyte cultures, the pigmented reconstructed epidermis is air-exposed and covered, as in vivo, with a stratum corneum. This allowed us to evaluate the effect of UV-irradiations on the epidermis and its protection by topically applied sunscreens. The introduction of resident epidermal Langerhans cells into the reconstructed epidermis remained an important challenge. We succeeded by seeding blood derived CD34+ hematopoietic progenitors onto a reconstructing epidermis composed of keratinocytes and melanocytes. The resulting pigmented epidermis shows melanocytes in the basal layer and resident epidermal Langerhans cells suprabasally. As in normal skin, the melanocytes transfer melanin to the neighboring keratinocytes, and the Langerhans cells express major histocompatibility complex class II molecules, CD1a antigen and Birbeck granules. This reconstructed epidermis, comprising for the first time the three major epidermal cell types, has the potential to serve in the near future as a predictive model for immuno-pharmaco-toxicological in vitro studies.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Regnier M,Duval C,Schmidt Rdoi
10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
1999-02-01 00:00:00pages
51-8issue
1eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS183571journal_volume
21pub_type
杂志文章abstract：OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12665
更新日期：2020-10-10 00:00:00
abstract：:Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期：2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：INTRODUCTION:We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS:The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12529
更新日期：2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期：1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Good water-impermeable barrier function is vital for healthy skin. Abnormality of the barrier function is observed in a variety of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and contact dermatitis. Moreover, repeated barrier disruption induces epidermal hyperplasia and inflammation. On the other hand, acceler...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00487.x
更新日期：2009-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The causative substances for axillary osmidrosis, which are often found in apocrine sweat, are the decomposed/denatured products of short-chain fatty acid and other biological metabolite compounds produced by axillary-resident bacteria. Conventional underarm deodorants suppress the process of odour production mostly b...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00322.x
更新日期：2006-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to determine the optimal conditions, that is the content of hemp oil and time of homogenization to obtain stable dispersion systems. METHODS:For this purpose, six emulsions were prepared, their stability was examined empirically and the most correctly formulated emulsion composition ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12211
更新日期：2015-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Sweat and skin surface pH are critical parameters in determining the performance of antiperspirants. The mechanism of action, the so-called 'plug theory' first proposed by Reller and Luedders, involves the expression of eccrine sweat onto the surface of the skin into which the solid antiperspirant salts, typically an ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00092.x
更新日期：2001-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Oil/water (o/w) microemulsions containing propranolol were studied. Isopropylmyristate was used as the oil, Tween 60 as a surfactant, butanol as a co-surfactant and a buffer of pH 6.5 for the continuous phase. The lipophilicity of propranolol was enhanced by formation of lipophilic ion-pairs to obtain a dispe...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00026.x
更新日期：1988-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期：2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and o...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00428.x
更新日期：2008-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期：1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The color and odor of cosmetics have been shown to be crucial for affective states and able to influence autonomic responses. We report an original procedure to measure the effect on subjects of the color and odor of cosmetic products, and to quantify the correlation between objective (psychophysiological recording) a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2003.00196.x
更新日期：2003-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.x
更新日期：2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to perform short-term sensory testing and instrumental (conductivity and rheological) characterization of a fast inverted oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion base, also known as a SWOP (Switch-Oil-Phase) emulsion, and reference o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion bases under various testing ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12282
更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS:Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12461
更新日期：2018-05-05 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期：1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:In this study, the influence of three cosmetically relevant, priorly characterized vehicles on skin hydration, sebum content and transepidermal water loss was investigated. The chosen vehicles included a liposomal pre-formulation, a multiple W/O/W emulsion and a microemulsion gel. The in vivo effects of these...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12180
更新日期：2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12567
更新日期：2019-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacit...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12198
更新日期：2015-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00744.x
更新日期：2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期：2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Body odours are generated from dead skin cells and secreted materials, such as sweat and sebum, through the metabolism of microorganisms living on the skin. Volatile steroids, key compounds in body odours, are also generated through the metabolism of microorganisms. These volatile steroids strengthen the intensity of ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00297.x
更新日期：2006-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期：2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS:Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive te...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1111/ics.12383
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In the past few years, the hair follicle has started revealing its beauty and mysteries. The existence of a growth and regeneration cycle, together with a unique tissue organization and complex regulatory network, make it a true paradigm of tissue homeostasis and dermal-epithelial crosstalk. In this brief review, I wi...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00109.x
更新日期：2002-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Lower eyelid sags as well as wrinkles represent age-related morphological changes of the skin surface. However, a quantitative method to evaluate lower eyelid sagging has not been previously established. We designed a new quantitative evaluation method that uses non-invasive skin scanning, which is based on the differ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00282.x
更新日期：2005-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00423.x
更新日期：1985-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti-redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12559
更新日期：2019-12-01 00:00:00
