Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:In this study, the influence of three cosmetically relevant, priorly characterized vehicles on skin hydration, sebum content and transepidermal water loss was investigated. The chosen vehicles included a liposomal pre-formulation, a multiple W/O/W emulsion and a microemulsion gel. The in vivo effects of these vehicles were demonstrated and compared among them. METHODS:The stability of the prepared vehicles was determined visually, microscopically, rheologically by pH measurements and particle size. Interactions with skin were assessed by non-invasive biophysical techniques using the Corneometer(®), Aqua Flux(®) and Sebumeter, measuring skin hydration, TEWL and skin sebum content, respectively. RESULTS:All vehicles remained stable over an observation period of 6 weeks. The multiple emulsion increased sebum content and skin hydration. In case of the liposomes, each monitored parameter remained almost constant. In contrast, the microemulsion gel lowered skin hydration and increased TEWL values, but even 1 week after termination of the treatment TEWL decreased almost close to control levels. CONCLUSION:All produced vehicles were proven to remain physically stable over the duration of this study. The used multiple emulsion showed very skin-friendly properties by increasing sebum and skin hydration. Likewise, the liposomal pre-formulation exhibited no negative effects. On the contrary, the investigated microemulsion gel seemed to have skin dehydrating and TEWL increasing features. However, the multiple emulsion as well as liposomes was identified to be well-tolerated vehicles for skin which might qualify them for the use in cosmetic formulations.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Mahrhauser D,Nagelreiter C,Baierl A,Skipiol J,Valenta Cdoi
10.1111/ics.12180subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2015-04-01 00:00:00pages
181-6issue
2eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
37pub_type
杂志文章abstract::The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期:1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12039
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary A new instrument has been developed which enables simultaneous determinations of the static and dynamic moduli of elasticity of the stratum corneum to be made. A systematic study of these mechanical parameters for various samples of human SC demonstrates the advantages of the dynamic measurement of the modulus...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00321.x
更新日期:1982-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Reconstructed human epidermis models (RHE) constitute an innovative alternative to study phototoxicity and photoprotection in the cosmetic industry. However, little information is currently available concerning the harmful effects of solar-simulated radiation (SSR) in these in vitro skin models. In this study, the pho...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00506.x
更新日期:2009-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Glutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non-invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00555.x
更新日期:1991-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期:1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the permeation of liquiritigenin (LQG) and liquiritin (LQ) as licorice flavonoids into the skin, we prepared ceramide liposome-in-cellulose hydrogel complex system. METHODS:Liposome-in-hydrogel complex systems were developed by incorporating ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogels by the swellin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12156
更新日期:2014-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期:2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Long cattle tendons were enzymatically disposed of lipoid and accompanying nitrogenous substances. Collagenous hydrolysate of average molecular mass M(a) = 0.830 +/- 1.206 kDa, suitable for application in skin and hair-care preparations, was obtained through hydrolysis by commercial protease (Bacillus subtilis) under ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00151.x
更新日期:2002-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00423.x
更新日期:1985-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期:2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better unde...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12679
更新日期:2020-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was de...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x
更新日期:1985-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Invol...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12505
更新日期:2019-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The viscosity of cosmetic emulsions is of great practical importance and related to their skin feel. To achieve a desirable and constant viscosity is not an easy task because numerous factors must be considered. Based on theoretical considerations a new surfactant, steareth-5-stearate, has been developed. It ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00546.x
更新日期:1991-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Several treatments for skin whitening are available today, but few of them are completely adequate, especially owing to the carcinogenic potential attributed to classical drugs like hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. To provide an alternative and safer technology for whitening, we developed two botanical compounds ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00736.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to establish a comparative analysis of the chemical and enzymatic stability of α- and β-arbutins as potential sources of the substance of concern hydroquinone (HQ). The study was performed using an array of techniques including HPLC-PDA, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and optical r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12275
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of our research was to investigate the reduction mechanism of thioglycerol (TG) on hair keratin fibres. METHODS:The structure of cross-sections at various depths of virgin white human hair resulting from the permanent waving process with TG was directly analysed at the molecular level using Ram...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12429
更新日期:2018-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this work was to investigate an alternative hair-dyeing method with vegetable colourants as the tannins, as well as the impact of pre-treatment as the bleaching process. METHODS:Untreated, 1, 2 and 3 times bleached hair tresses that were dyed with tannins in combination with metal salts were chara...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12624
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Ageing leads to characteristic changes in the appearance of facial skin. Among these changes, we can distinguish the skin topographic cues (skin sagging and wrinkles), the dark spots and the dark circles around the eyes. Although skin changes are similar in Caucasian and Chinese faces, the age of occurrence ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12128
更新日期:2014-08-01 00:00:00