Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better understand the sweat mechanism and to develop alternative technologies against excessive sweating a search for an effective testing approach started as up to now, cost- and time-consuming in vivo studies represent the standard procedure for testing and identifying these alternatives. MATERIAL AND METHODS:The herein described in vitro test system is based on the measurement of intracellular changes of the ion equilibrium in cultured eccrine sweat gland cells. Subsequently, in vivo studies on the back of volunteers were conducted to verify the sweat-reducing effect of in vitro newly discovered substance. RESULTS:In this study, we describe an effective cell-based in vitro method as a potent tool for a more targeted screening of alternatives to aluminium salts. Testing the commonly used aluminium chlorohydrate as one example of an aluminium-based active in this screening procedure, we discovered a distinct influence on the ion equilibrium: Intracellular levels of sodium ions were decreased while those of chloride increased. Screening of various substances revealed a polyethyleneimine, adjusted to pH 3.5 with hydrochloric acid, to evoke the same alterations in the ion equilibrium as aluminium chlorohydrate. Subsequent in vivo studies showed its substantial antiperspirant action and confirmed the high efficiency of the polyethyleneimine solution in vivo. Further, specific investigations connecting the chloride content of the tested substances with the resulting sweat reduction pointed towards a substantial impact of the chloride ions on sweating. CONCLUSION:The newly described in vitro cell-based screening method represents an effective means for identifying new antiperspirant actives and suggests an additional biological mechanism of action of sweat-reducing ingredients which is directed towards unbalancing of the ion equilibrium inside eccrine sweat gland cells. :OBJECTIF: l’humidité axillaire représente un effet indésirable du mécanisme physiologiquement vital de la sudation, en particulier lorsqu’elle devient excessive. Les produits cosmétiques réduisant la sécrétion de sueur reposent sur les sels d’aluminium comme principe actif agissant en bloquant physiquement la glande sudoripare. Motivée par l’intérêt de mieux comprendre le mécanisme de la sudation et de développer des technologies alternatives contre l’hypersudation, une recherche pour une approche de test efficace a commencé car, jusqu’à présent, les études in vivo coûteuses et chronophages représentent la procédure standard pour tester et identifier ces alternatives. MATÉRIELS ET MÉTHODES: le système de test in vitro décrit ici est basé sur la mesure des changements intracellulaires de l’équilibre ionique dans les cellules des glandes sudoripares exocrines cultivées. Par la suite, des études in vivo sur le dos de volontaires ont été menées pour vérifier l’effet réducteur de la sudation d’une substance nouvellement découverte in vitro. RÉSULTATS: dans cette étude, nous décrivons une méthode cellulaire efficace in vitro en tant qu’outil puissant pour un dépistage plus ciblé des alternatives aux sels d’aluminium. En testant le chlorohydrate d’aluminium couramment utilisé comme exemple d’un principe actif à base d’aluminium dans cette procédure de dépistage, nous avons découvert une influence distincte sur l’équilibre ionique : les taux intracellulaires d’ions sodium ont diminué tandis que ceux du chlorure ont augmenté. La recherche de diverses substances a révélé une polyéthylèneimine, ajustée au pH 3,5 avec de l’acide chlorhydrique, pour évoquer les mêmes altérations de l’équilibre ionique que le chlorohydrate d’aluminium. Des études in vivo ultérieures ont montré son action anti-transpirante substantielle et ont confirmé la haute efficacité de la solution de polyéthylèneimine in vivo. De plus, des études spécifiques établissant un lien entre la teneur en chlorure des substances testées et la réduction de la sudation qui en résulte ont indiqué que les ions chlorure ont un impact substantiel sur l’hypersudation. CONCLUSION: la nouvelle méthode de dépistage cellulaire in vitro décrite représente un moyen efficace d’identifier de nouveaux agents anti-transpirants actifs et suggère un mécanisme d’action biologique supplémentaire des ingrédients réducteurs de la sudation, dirigé vers le déséquilibre de l’équilibre ionique à l’intérieur des cellules des glandes sudoripares exocrines.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Welzel J,Grüdl S,Welss T,Claas M,Sättler A,Förster T,Banowski Bdoi
10.1111/ics.12679subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2020-12-01 00:00:00eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期:1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期:1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期:2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:In order to comply with the European legislation concerning the risk assessment of skin sensitizers, considerable progress has been made in developing alternative methods, such as human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). H-CLAT is based on cytometric measurement of fluorescence emitted by anti-CD54 and anti...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12530
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.x
更新日期:1998-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期:2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS:Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12383
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In this study a compact, hand-held, solid state erythema meter using light emitting diodes is described. This device has been constructed and used to compare with visual assessments of ultraviolet radiation in human subjects. A statistically significant correlation was obtained between erythema index and visu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00521.x
更新日期:1990-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine whether the coordination environment of copper in hair is affected by the shampoo used. METHODS:Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy to discriminate between mixed oxygen/nitrogen and mixed oxygen/sulphur coordination of copper after treatment with two different shampoos. RESULTS:C...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12178
更新日期:2015-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00205.x
更新日期:1979-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) was regarded as new topical delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. The purpose of this study is to develop carrier systems for organic and inorganic sunscreens based on a matrix composed of carnauba wax and decyl oleate. Formulae (F1-F7) were prepared using ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00598.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sun exposure during leisure activity evokes fatigue. We employed the Advanced Trail Making Test (ATMT), a recently developed objective method of evaluating brain function performance used to measure mental fatigue, for objective determination of fatigue development caused by solar exposure to the human body. First, a ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.0142-5463.2004.00200.x
更新日期:2004-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well known that the shelf-life of products containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist not only because of the r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00381.x
更新日期:2007-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A technique was developed to evaluate the relative slip of ten test talcs and two control talcs (one with known good slip and one with known poor slip properties). The study was conducted under double-blind conditions with a naive panel of 19 subjects, who with minimal training ranked the 12 talcs. The rankin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00041.x
更新日期:1992-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期:2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x
更新日期:1999-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00463.x
更新日期:1987-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期:1985-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12635
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Several types of human tests are used widely for the evaluation of cosmetics including single patch tests, in-use tests, human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT). However, there is no clear and well-defined publi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12095
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00