Abstract:
:It is well known that the shelf-life of products containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist not only because of the risks of skin irritation, but also because of the strong limitations in the choice of the acidic agent. It occurs that the use of either hydroxy-acids and phosphoric acid/phosphate buffers has the opposite effect on the one intended. Recently, a perfluoropolyether phosphate (PFPE phosphate) was introduced as a new acidic agent to lower the pH without increasing the skin irritation. Starting from a rationale based on this potential, we investigated sunless tanners containing PFPE phosphate and DHA. We monitored the ageing of sunless tanners with and without PFPE phosphate, by visual observation and instrumentation (pH measures and (1)H-NMR spectroscopy). Furthermore, to evaluate whether the substances produced from the DHA degradation are potential irritants, patch tests on volunteers were used to check the safety and indirectly the stability of the compositions. In conclusion, our investigations on the guidelines to formulate DHA-containing sunless tanners: confirmed that the pH is a key parameter in formulating these compositions; proved that PFPE phosphate is a safe and compatible ingredient to lower the pH; gave some evidence of the critical importance of thickeners; suggested a strategy based on multifunctional agents to minimize the ingredients.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Pantini G,Ingoglia R,Brunetta F,Brunetta Adoi
10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00381.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2007-06-01 00:00:00pages
201-9issue
3eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS381journal_volume
29pub_type
杂志文章abstract:OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better unde...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12679
更新日期:2020-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Facial attractiveness has been reported to be influenced by visual features such as facial shape and the colour and texture of the skin. However, no empirical studies have examined the effects of facial skin radiance on facial attractiveness. The present study investigated whether types of skin reflection (i....
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12673
更新日期:2020-11-20 00:00:00
abstract::Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12042
更新日期:2013-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:A comprehensive methodology for the simultaneous determination of 15 multiclass organic UV filters in sunscreen cosmetics was developed using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-MS/MS). METHODS:Sunscreen cosmetics of various matrices,...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12387
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness. Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1983.tb00329.x
更新日期:1983-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Several types of human tests are used widely for the evaluation of cosmetics including single patch tests, in-use tests, human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT). However, there is no clear and well-defined publi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12095
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00463.x
更新日期:1987-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期:2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期:2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Ageing leads to characteristic changes in the appearance of facial skin. Among these changes, we can distinguish the skin topographic cues (skin sagging and wrinkles), the dark spots and the dark circles around the eyes. Although skin changes are similar in Caucasian and Chinese faces, the age of occurrence ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12128
更新日期:2014-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human me...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12002
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Invol...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12505
更新日期:2019-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:In this study, the influence of three cosmetically relevant, priorly characterized vehicles on skin hydration, sebum content and transepidermal water loss was investigated. The chosen vehicles included a liposomal pre-formulation, a multiple W/O/W emulsion and a microemulsion gel. The in vivo effects of these...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12180
更新日期:2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期:1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:We investigated the association of psychosocial problems, menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes, and trends of smoking and use of cosmetics in our previous study. In this follow-up study, we researched psychiatric disorders and psychosocial problems in menopausal women. METHODS:We designed a cohort study w...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12081
更新日期:2013-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary Nowadays, cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical forms must undergo many controls, i.e. in-process controls on the finished product and stability testing. The authors suggest using first derivative spectroscopy for active ingredients assay presenting an ultra-violet absorption. It offers the advantage of a direct ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00087.x
更新日期:1994-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacit...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12198
更新日期:2015-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期:2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron mic...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00362.x
更新日期:2007-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the past few years, the hair follicle has started revealing its beauty and mysteries. The existence of a growth and regeneration cycle, together with a unique tissue organization and complex regulatory network, make it a true paradigm of tissue homeostasis and dermal-epithelial crosstalk. In this brief review, I wi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00109.x
更新日期:2002-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期:1985-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (2HP-beta-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x
更新日期:1999-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An investigation has been carried out into the synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts of triglycerides. The aim of this work was to produce such compounds without breaking the triglyceride skeleton. The reaction of chloracetyl chloride with the triglyceride of ricinoleic acid which is the major constituent (8...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00560.x
更新日期:1991-08-01 00:00:00