First-derivative spectroscopic determination of sunscreens in cosmetic formulations.

abstract：BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Voegeli R,Monneuse JM,Schoop R,Summers B,Rawlings AV

更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Locke B,Jachowicz J

更新日期：2006-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Gopaul R,Knaggs HE,Lephart J

更新日期：2011-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：BACKGROUND:Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids hav...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Pérez B,Hansen BS,Bulsara PA,Rawlings AV,Clarke MJ,Guo Z

更新日期：2017-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:The process leading to the loss of corneocytes form the skin surface is termed desquamation. In healthy skin it is an orderly and essentially invisible process whereby individual or small groups of corneocytes detach from neighbouring cells to be lost to the environment and replaced by younger cells from the deeper la...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Harding CR,Watkinson A,Rawlings AV,Scott IR

更新日期：2000-02-01 00:00:00

abstract：:In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Rubegni P,Cevenini G,Stanghellini E,Andreassi M,Sbano P,Fabiani P,Andreassi L

更新日期：2002-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to perform short-term sensory testing and instrumental (conductivity and rheological) characterization of a fast inverted oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion base, also known as a SWOP (Switch-Oil-Phase) emulsion, and reference o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion bases under various testing ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Korać R,Krajišnik D,Milić J

更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Lamaud E,Huc A,Wepierre J

更新日期：1982-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：OBJECTIVE:This study focused on the formulation of lamellar lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) loaded with mulberry stem extract (MSE). METHODS:The LLC formulation tested used two oils: n-dodecane or tridecyl salicylate, a co-solvent (propylene glycol) and a single (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) or mixed surfactant system. The ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Yhirayha C,Soontaranon S,Wittaya-Areekul S,Pitaksuteepong T

更新日期：2014-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：BACKGROUND:In order to comply with the European legislation concerning the risk assessment of skin sensitizers, considerable progress has been made in developing alternative methods, such as human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). H-CLAT is based on cytometric measurement of fluorescence emitted by anti-CD54 and anti...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Buzzella A,Mazzini G,Vicini R,Angelinetta C,Pastoris O

更新日期：2019-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Qiu J,Chen M,Liu J,Huang X,Chen J,Zhou L,Ma J,Sextius P,Pena AM,Cai Z,Jeulin S

更新日期：2016-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Cannell JS

更新日期：1985-12-01 00:00:00

abstract：:It is well known that the shelf-life of products containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist not only because of the r...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Pantini G,Ingoglia R,Brunetta F,Brunetta A

更新日期：2007-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Dederen JC,Chavan B,Rawlings AV

更新日期：2012-12-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis An investigation has been carried out into the synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts of triglycerides. The aim of this work was to produce such compounds without breaking the triglyceride skeleton. The reaction of chloracetyl chloride with the triglyceride of ricinoleic acid which is the major constituent (8...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Baydar A,Johnston R

更新日期：1991-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Summary The activity of thioglycolic acid, incorporated in a microemulsion, towards cystine residues present in keratin proteins has been investigated. In an attempt to relate the structural state of the microemulsions to cystine reactivity, an appropriate model system showing a large microemulsion domain with diverse...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Solans C,Parra JL,Erra P,Azemar N,Clausse M,Touraud D

更新日期：1987-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Ponec M

更新日期：1992-12-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Forestier JP

更新日期：1981-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis The modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H(2)O(2)) or reductive (HSO(3)Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microcmulsions with H(2)O(2) or NaSO(3)H ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Parra JL,García Domínguez JJ,Comelles F,Sänchez J,Solans C,Pelejero C,Balaguer F

更新日期：1985-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Langton AK,Sherratt MJ,Griffiths CE,Watson RE

更新日期：2010-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis The dichlorophenyl-imidazoldioxolan elubiol is used for skin and hair care in subjects with oily skin or dandruff. A study was conducted in 14 men to evaluate by non-invasive methods the effect of long-term use of elubiol on the sebum output at the skin surface. Measures were made using the Sebumeter SM810 an...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Pierard GE,Cauwenbergh G

更新日期：1996-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Boue-Grabot M,Bernardin G,Chaumond S,Pinon JF

更新日期：1995-10-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Dandruff is characterized by a flaky, pruritic scalp and affects up to half the world's population post-puberty. The aetiology of dandruff is multifactorial, influenced by Malassezia, sebum production and individual susceptibility. The commensal yeast Malassezia is a strong contributory factor to dandruff formation, b...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Turner GA,Hoptroff M,Harding CR

更新日期：2012-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Synopsis Glutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non-invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Pruche F,Kermici M,Prunieras M

更新日期：1991-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Dweck AC

更新日期：2000-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Favet J,Griffiths W,Holzner G,Amacker PA,Schorer E

更新日期：1987-04-01 00:00:00

abstract：:It is well established that the evaporation of sweat from the human body surface is the main mechanism by which heat balance is maintained following a rise in body core temperature. Since the introduction of the first brand name antiperspirant in the United States during the early 1900s, antiperspirant products design...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Burry JS,Evans RL,Rawlings AV,Shiu J

更新日期：2003-08-01 00:00:00

abstract：:Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field ...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Regnier M,Duval C,Schmidt R

更新日期：1999-02-01 00:00:00

abstract：OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Liu Y,Liu YJ,Hu J,Ji FL,Lv J,Chen SJ,Zhu Y

更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00

abstract：:The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...

journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science

authors： Bazin R,Fanchon C

更新日期：2006-12-01 00:00:00