Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:This study focused on the formulation of lamellar lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) loaded with mulberry stem extract (MSE). METHODS:The LLC formulation tested used two oils: n-dodecane or tridecyl salicylate, a co-solvent (propylene glycol) and a single (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) or mixed surfactant system. The mixed surfactant was PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate/PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil/glyceryl monooleate. The LLC formation and phase behaviour were observed by polarized optical microscopy (POM) before and after MSE loading. Nanostructure determinations on these formulations following MSE loading used small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) at 25-40°C. RESULTS:Lamellar LLCs are formed more easily with n-dodecane than tridecyl salicylate. Propylene glycol, in the aqueous phase (1 : 1), failed to form LLC due to suboptimal critical packing parameter (CPP) value. A single or mixed surfactant system also influenced the formation of lamellar LLC according to the chemical structure of both oils and especially the surfactants used. The four lamellar LLC formulations selected for MSE loading were PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate/tridecyl salicylate/water; mixed surfactant/tridecyl salicylate/water; PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate/n-dodecane/water and mixed surfactant/n-dodecane/water, named F1, F2, F3 and F4, respectively. MSE in F1 and F3 did not affect the lamellar structure, while MSE in F2 and F4 enlarged the lamellar structure. The SAXS data confirmed that the LLC formulations obtained were lamellar and the structure persisted with MSE. CONCLUSION:These lamellar formulations should find widespread application for MSE and perhaps other similar herbal cosmetics.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Yhirayha C,Soontaranon S,Wittaya-Areekul S,Pitaksuteepong Tdoi
10.1111/ics.12116subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2014-06-01 00:00:00pages
213-20issue
3eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
36pub_type
杂志文章abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS:Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12383
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期:2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing gamma linolenic acid. In human dry skin the usual fatty aci...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00014.x
更新日期:1988-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids hav...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12404
更新日期:2017-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this study was to establish a comparative analysis of the chemical and enzymatic stability of α- and β-arbutins as potential sources of the substance of concern hydroquinone (HQ). The study was performed using an array of techniques including HPLC-PDA, nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and optical r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12275
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00423.x
更新日期:1985-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness. Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1983.tb00329.x
更新日期:1983-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The hydroglycolic (HG) extract from 70% propylene glycol (PG) extraction of myrobalan fruits showed the most appreciable antioxidant efficiency towards 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) in comparison to the extracts from 30, 50, 70 and 100% ethyl alcohol (EA), and 30, 50 and 100% PG . Its total polyphenols were als...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00642.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Molecular chaperone, heat shock proteins (HSPs), stabilizes intracellular processes of cells under stress. Little is known about the role of molecular chaperone proteins in the skin pathology, rejuvenation and wound healing, or whether their expression is altered by environmental and physiological stress to the skin o...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00601.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::On a daily basis, the skin is exposed to many environmental stressors and insults. Over a 24-h natural cycle, during the day, the skin is focused on protection; while at night, the skin is focused on repairing damage that occurred during daytime and getting ready for the next morning. Circadian rhythm provides the pre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12572
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the present work was to evaluate the possible use of Myrosma cannifolia starch L.F. Maranthaceae ('Guapo'), as a raw material in heterogeneous systems or powdered cosmetic and pharmaceutical products formulation. The starch chemical and physical characteristics, physico-chemical properties, and rheolo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00253.x
更新日期:2005-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes found in various tissues of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus) and other species of Bromeliaceae. Owing to its proteolytic activity, bromelain has been used in the food, medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for its cell renewal, anti-ageing, whiteni...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12308
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The powder made with leaflets of a senna, Cassia obovata Coll., is a cosmetic mis-called 'neutral henna' The traditional use of C. obovata is as a laxative. The principal active components of this laxative drug are sennosides A and B. In the Middle Ages the blend of henna (Lawsonia inermis) and senna was calle...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00284.x
更新日期:1981-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:We investigated the association of psychosocial problems, menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes, and trends of smoking and use of cosmetics in our previous study. In this follow-up study, we researched psychiatric disorders and psychosocial problems in menopausal women. METHODS:We designed a cohort study w...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12081
更新日期:2013-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of this work was to investigate an alternative hair-dyeing method with vegetable colourants as the tannins, as well as the impact of pre-treatment as the bleaching process. METHODS:Untreated, 1, 2 and 3 times bleached hair tresses that were dyed with tannins in combination with metal salts were chara...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12624
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Liposomes are commonly used in cosmetic formulations to increase the bioavailability of active ingredients. We have previously shown that polysaccharide coating of liposomes improves their resistance to surfactants and electrolytes. In the current study, we have assessed the impact of coating on the skin pen...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12394
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期:1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期:2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The activity of thioglycolic acid, incorporated in a microemulsion, towards cystine residues present in keratin proteins has been investigated. In an attempt to relate the structural state of the microemulsions to cystine reactivity, an appropriate model system showing a large microemulsion domain with diverse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00476.x
更新日期:1987-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00