Abstract：
BACKGROUND:Xerosis is an abnormally dry and flaky skin condition that is associated with a change in the packing behaviour of the lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. This skin condition can lead to an increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL). As ultralong-chain fatty acids have a positive effect on maintaining the packing behaviour of the SC lipid matrix, a moisturizer which contains glycerides of ultralong-chain fatty acids could act as a semi-occlusive layer on the surface of the skin. This will lower the rate of water evaporation through the epidermis and consequently help prevent or improve skin xerosis. OBJECTIVE:To identify a novel source of ultralong-chain lipids and develop monoacylglycerols with mixed fatty acyl chain lengths that have occlusive properties superior to petrolatum. METHODS:Initially, Performacol 425, a mixture of very long-chain fatty alcohols, was fractionated using short path distillation to yield a fraction enriched with C22:0-C26:0 fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol fraction was then oxidized using Jones reagent, and the resulting fatty acids were esterified with glycerol to yield the corresponding monoglycerides using Novozym 435. These were then evaluated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and water vapour transmission rate measurements. RESULTS:The monoacylglycerols enriched with C22:0-C26:0 displayed a melting point of 80°C and orthorhombic packing; packing behaviour mainly present in healthy SC. In addition, a phospholipid-structured emulsion containing 3% of the monoglycerides displayed occlusive properties superior to the vehicle containing 3% petrolatum jelly. CONCLUSIONS:Performacol 425 can be a potential source of fatty alcohols to synthesize monoacylglycerols that can improve the occlusive behaviour of phospholipid-structured emulsions.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Pérez B,Hansen BS,Bulsara PA,Rawlings AV,Clarke MJ,Guo Zdoi
10.1111/ics.12404subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2017-10-01 00:00:00pages
511-517issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
39pub_type
杂志文章abstract：:Lecithin has an antioxidative potential that depends directly on the content of phospholipids. Purified lecithin with a higher phospholipid content exerts better antioxidative properties. Furthermore, due to its specific physico-chemical properties, amphiphility in particular, the phospholipid the largest portion of t...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.181682.x
更新日期：1999-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期：2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:A novel microwave-assisted dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (MADLLME) technique according to the solidification of a floating organic droplet (SFO) and graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (GFAAS) used for the extraction and determination of lead ions in lipsticks and hair dyes made in diff...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12221
更新日期：2015-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期：2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00229.x
更新日期：1979-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Good water-impermeable barrier function is vital for healthy skin. Abnormality of the barrier function is observed in a variety of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and contact dermatitis. Moreover, repeated barrier disruption induces epidermal hyperplasia and inflammation. On the other hand, acceler...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00487.x
更新日期：2009-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期：2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期：1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The phase diagrams were determined of lactic and isohexanoic hydroxy acids as well as salicylic acid with water, a non-ionic surfactant and a paraffinic oil to outline the influence of the hydroxy acids on the structure in a model for a skin lotion. The results showed the influence of the acid to be similar to that of...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00212.x
更新日期：2004-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12392
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cutaneous irritation is a stereotyped response of the skin to any physical or chemical insult. Its main manifestations encompass inflammatory erythema and an alteration of the cutaneous microrelief showing increased roughness, dehydration and erratic desquamation. Several instrumental methods can indirectly assess the...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00170.x
更新日期：2003-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期：2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of this work was to investigate an alternative hair-dyeing method with vegetable colourants as the tannins, as well as the impact of pre-treatment as the bleaching process. METHODS:Untreated, 1, 2 and 3 times bleached hair tresses that were dyed with tannins in combination with metal salts were chara...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12624
更新日期：2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Lip plumpers should enhance lip volume. It has been shown that no noticeable result was obtained after long term use of these products. The present study has been carried out to assess lip plumpers' short term effectiveness within 2 h from application. METHODS:Effectiveness was assessed using non-invasive te...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1111/ics.12383
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期：2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Several types of human tests are used widely for the evaluation of cosmetics including single patch tests, in-use tests, human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT). However, there is no clear and well-defined publi...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12095
更新日期：2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期：2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The aim of this study was to determine how worthwhile it would be to combine a newly developed topical slimming product with customized dietary habits not based on calorie restriction, so as to improve the cellulite appearance of the skin. At the beginning of the study, a nutritionist recorded the dietary habits of ea...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00630.x
更新日期：2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi-disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical ('medical') treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosm...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00741.x
更新日期：2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期：2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The vapour pressures of phenethyl alcohol and limonene in their water-in-oil microemulsion region were measured by head space gas chromatography of equilibrated samples. The results showed that the vapour pressure of both fragrance compounds in their mutual solutions without surfactant or water was significantly great...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.177054.x
更新日期：1998-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,多中心研究
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00748.x
更新日期：2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期：1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (2HP-beta-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literat...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x
更新日期：1999-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness. Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that s...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1983.tb00329.x
更新日期：1983-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期：1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期：1985-10-01 00:00:00
