Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and its main ingredient paeoniflorin has been scarcely investigated by topical application. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin as skin whitening agent in cosmetic application. METHODS:Paeonia lactiflora root extract (containing 53.25% of paeoniflorin) and paeoniflorin (97% purity) were applied topically on reconstructed pigmented human epidermis model, a three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalent, showing morphological and functional characteristics similar to those of in vivo human skin. Two specific methods were used for quantifying melanin inside the reconstructed pigmented epidermis: Fontana-Masson staining (2D quantification) and multiphoton microscopy (3D quantification). RESULTS:Compared to vehicle (dimethyl sulfoxide DMSO), a significant decrease in 2D and 3D melanin content was observed after topical application on reconstructed pigmented epidermis of Paeonia lactiflora extract at 300 μg mL(-1) (-28% and -27%, respectively) and paeoniflorin at 120 μg mL(-1) /250 μM (-30% and -23%, respectively), which is in the same order of magnitude as the positive reference 4-n-butylresorcinol at 83 μg mL(-1) /500 μM (-26% and -40%, respectively). CONCLUSION:These results demonstrate, for the first time, the depigmenting potential of paeoniflorin and thus the potential interest of using Paeonia lactiflora root extracts containing paeoniflorin in cosmetic or dermatological applications for reducing the severity of some hyperpigmented skin disorders.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Qiu J,Chen M,Liu J,Huang X,Chen J,Zhou L,Ma J,Sextius P,Pena AM,Cai Z,Jeulin Sdoi
10.1111/ics.12309subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2016-10-01 00:00:00pages
444-51issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
38pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis The ability of baseline transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements to predict the response of healthy subjects to a standard soap chamber irritation insult was evaluated. Chambers containing surfactant solutions were applied to the forearms of normal volunteers for five consecutive days. TEWL was measured ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00452.x
更新日期:1986-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00402.x
更新日期:2007-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12049
更新日期:2013-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::This work describes the development, validation and application of a simple and fast high-performance liquid chromatography-with diode array dectection (HPLC-DAD) method for the determination of eight sunscreen agents: benzophenone-3, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate (used in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00703.x
更新日期:2012-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sun exposure during leisure activity evokes fatigue. We employed the Advanced Trail Making Test (ATMT), a recently developed objective method of evaluating brain function performance used to measure mental fatigue, for objective determination of fatigue development caused by solar exposure to the human body. First, a ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.0142-5463.2004.00200.x
更新日期:2004-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:In order to comply with the European legislation concerning the risk assessment of skin sensitizers, considerable progress has been made in developing alternative methods, such as human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). H-CLAT is based on cytometric measurement of fluorescence emitted by anti-CD54 and anti...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12530
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVES:Facial clinical signs and their integration are the basis of perception than others could have from ourselves, noticeably the age they imagine we are. Facial modifications in motion and their objective measurements before and after application of skin regimen are essential to go further in evaluation capacit...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12198
更新日期:2015-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron mic...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00362.x
更新日期:2007-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期:2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12567
更新日期:2019-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Nowadays, flavonoids are present in many cosmetic formulations, mainly in the form of plant extracts. The main reason of still increasing popularity of these substances is their beneficial biochemical activity. The main factor affecting activity of flavonoids in the skin is their skin penetration ability. The studies ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00166.x
更新日期:2002-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A modified procedure for the determination of total N-nitroso compounds in personal care products was evaluated in collaborative studies organized through the UK Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA). The method offers a true 'totals'determination in that a solution of the whole sample is analyse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00127.x
更新日期:1995-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12039
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
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journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A technique was developed to evaluate the relative slip of ten test talcs and two control talcs (one with known good slip and one with known poor slip properties). The study was conducted under double-blind conditions with a naive panel of 19 subjects, who with minimal training ranked the 12 talcs. The rankin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00041.x
更新日期:1992-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well known that the shelf-life of products containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist not only because of the r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00381.x
更新日期:2007-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12392
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.x
更新日期:2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Hyaluronan (HA) plays a role in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In addition, HA has been shown to have different biological activities depending on its molecular weight. It has been reported that HA-mediated CD44 activation regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Therefore, the aim of this stu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12105
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The purpose of this work was to compare the evolution of three multiple emulsions (ME) by different controls. The series of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) multiple emulsions were elaborated and controlled by both the usual analyses which permitted the classification of the multiple emulsions with respect to th...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1993.tb00069.x
更新日期:1993-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well established that the evaporation of sweat from the human body surface is the main mechanism by which heat balance is maintained following a rise in body core temperature. Since the introduction of the first brand name antiperspirant in the United States during the early 1900s, antiperspirant products design...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00184.x
更新日期:2003-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Glutathione (GSH) plays an important role in cellular protection during ageing. The hair plucking technique is a non-invasive method for the direct biochemical study of keratinocytes. Hair was taken from the suboccipital area of 63 volunteers (men and women whose ages ranged from 13 to 103 years). The results...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00555.x
更新日期:1991-06-01 00:00:00