Abstract：
:In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted of 100 subjects of Caucasian race (60 female, 40 male; mean age 33 years). Skin colour was measured with both devices (SPD and Minolta CR-200) on the medial surface of the arm (constitutional skin colour). Our study showed that the SPD gave a better representation of Fitzpatrick phototype, showing 89% concordance (evaluated by classification matrix) as against the 71% concordance of the L(*)a(*)b(*) and Yxy colorimetric systems. The present results are important because evaluation of phototype with the SPD device is easy, fast, objective and reliable. Moreover, this instrument has potential applications in cosmetology and in photodermatology.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Rubegni P,Cevenini G,Stanghellini E,Andreassi M,Sbano P,Fabiani P,Andreassi Ldoi
10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2002-08-01 00:00:00pages
187-93issue
4eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS136journal_volume
24pub_type
杂志文章abstract：OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期：2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.x
更新日期：1998-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The study of ternary systems leads to the understanding of the physico-chemical aspect and allows the contribution of the different components to a cosmetic formulation to be developed. The present investigation was centred in the zone of transparent get belonging to a previously studied ternary system contai...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00490.x
更新日期：1989-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many cosmetics contain keratolytic hydroxy acids to correct the effects of photoageing on human skin. Although methods exist for quantifying the alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid in aqueous media, accurate methods for quantification in mixed hydrophobic and aqueous cosmetic creams and lotions are lacking. Glycolic aci...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00128.x
更新日期：2002-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contac...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.x
更新日期：2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：SYNOPSIS:Despite the extensive use of topical coatings in cosmetics, their effect on the mechanical properties of human skin and the perception of skin tightness in the form of drying stresses is not well understood. We describe the application of a recently developed substrate curvature technique to characterize stres...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00568.x
更新日期：2010-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期：2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human me...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12002
更新日期：2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期：1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期：2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Summary The activity of thioglycolic acid, incorporated in a microemulsion, towards cystine residues present in keratin proteins has been investigated. In an attempt to relate the structural state of the microemulsions to cystine reactivity, an appropriate model system showing a large microemulsion domain with diverse...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00476.x
更新日期：1987-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期：2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00402.x
更新日期：2007-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin acts a major target as well as a principle barrier for topical/transdermal drug delivery. Despite the many advantages of this system, the major obstacle is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily. One simpl...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00264.x
更新日期：2005-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to determine the optimal conditions, that is the content of hemp oil and time of homogenization to obtain stable dispersion systems. METHODS:For this purpose, six emulsions were prepared, their stability was examined empirically and the most correctly formulated emulsion composition ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12211
更新日期：2015-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Summary A new instrument has been developed which enables simultaneous determinations of the static and dynamic moduli of elasticity of the stratum corneum to be made. A systematic study of these mechanical parameters for various samples of human SC demonstrates the advantages of the dynamic measurement of the modulus...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00321.x
更新日期：1982-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.) is a seed crop rich in bioactive compounds including phytoecdysones (especially 20-hydroxyecdysone, 20HE), polyphenols, proteins and essential fatty acids. We previously reported a method to leach and concentrate quinoa bioactives into a complex phytochemical mixture termed ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12185
更新日期：2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The present investigation is based on the formulation of water-in-oil (w/o) cream preparations of ascorbic acid (AA) at pH 4-6 using different emollients and humectants. METHODS:The preparations were stored in the dark at 30°C for a period of 3 months and were studied for their chemical and physical stabilit...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12152
更新日期：2014-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi-disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical ('medical') treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosm...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00741.x
更新日期：2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期：1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期：2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Liposomes are commonly used in cosmetic formulations to increase the bioavailability of active ingredients. We have previously shown that polysaccharide coating of liposomes improves their resistance to surfactants and electrolytes. In the current study, we have assessed the impact of coating on the skin pen...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12394
更新日期：2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This paper examines the various methods that are available to the scientist working with natural materials to substantiate their efficacy. The methods discussed are: literature surveys, clinical trials, instrumental measurement, products with Pharmaceutical Licenses, comparison with other plants containing same active...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00015.x
更新日期：2000-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti-redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12559
更新日期：2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期：2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:This work describes the development, validation and application of a simple and fast high-performance liquid chromatography-with diode array dectection (HPLC-DAD) method for the determination of eight sunscreen agents: benzophenone-3, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate (used in...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00703.x
更新日期：2012-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
