Abstract:
:The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin. It constitutes a permeability barrier that keeps micro-organisms and toxic agents from entering the skin, while retaining water and electrolytes. In order to preserve its colour and elasticity, the skin needs lipids and water. Certain occlusive products in contact with the skin diminish its natural transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and the occlusion potential of such products can be evaluated with the aid of evaporimetry. The purpose of this work was to increase the sensitivity of the method by associating the well-established methodology for measuring TEWL with a technique for removing occlusive products from the skin. The present study was designed to evaluate the procedure of measuring TEWL evaporimetrically (the traditional method) in comparison with our new method, which employs the same evaporimetric measurement combined with a removal technique that uses cotton to remove the physical barrier that occlusive products form on the skin. The product used in this study was solid petrolatum (petroleum jelly), which possesses well-known occlusive properties. The TEWL measurements were made over a pre-defined period of time, on different skin sites, and were systematically compared with the results generated by an untreated control site. The TEWL was first determined by the classic method (without product removal), then the product was removed and new readings were taken. Our results show that the classic technique was unable to show a statistical distinction between the occlusion capability of solid petrolatum and the untreated control site, whereas this same method used in association with product removal provided a statistically significant difference between the TEWL measured on the occluded and control sites. Therefore, our removal technique associated with the traditional method for measuring TEWL proved capable of increasing the response sensitivity of evaporimetry with occlusive products.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Marques JP,Basso DS,Nunes ASdoi
10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00357.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2007-04-01 00:00:00pages
97-102issue
2eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS357journal_volume
29pub_type
杂志文章abstract:OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12665
更新日期:2020-10-10 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Bromelain is a mixture of proteolytic enzymes found in various tissues of the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus) and other species of Bromeliaceae. Owing to its proteolytic activity, bromelain has been used in the food, medical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for its cell renewal, anti-ageing, whiteni...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12308
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Oil/water (o/w) microemulsions containing propranolol were studied. Isopropylmyristate was used as the oil, Tween 60 as a surfactant, butanol as a co-surfactant and a buffer of pH 6.5 for the continuous phase. The lipophilicity of propranolol was enhanced by formation of lipophilic ion-pairs to obtain a dispe...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00026.x
更新日期:1988-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sweat and skin surface pH are critical parameters in determining the performance of antiperspirants. The mechanism of action, the so-called 'plug theory' first proposed by Reller and Luedders, involves the expression of eccrine sweat onto the surface of the skin into which the solid antiperspirant salts, typically an ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00092.x
更新日期:2001-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:A novel microwave-assisted dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (MADLLME) technique according to the solidification of a floating organic droplet (SFO) and graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (GFAAS) used for the extraction and determination of lead ions in lipsticks and hair dyes made in diff...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12221
更新日期:2015-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present study, we tested a new device called skin phototype diagnosis (SPD) built for the purpose of objectively determining skin phototype. We compared its performance with that of phototype determinations according to Fitzpatrick method and on tristimulus colorimetry (Minolta CR-200). Our population consisted...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00136.x
更新日期:2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing gamma linolenic acid. In human dry skin the usual fatty aci...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00014.x
更新日期:1988-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to determine the optimal conditions, that is the content of hemp oil and time of homogenization to obtain stable dispersion systems. METHODS:For this purpose, six emulsions were prepared, their stability was examined empirically and the most correctly formulated emulsion composition ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12211
更新日期:2015-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期:1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Singlet-oxygen is a non-radical reactive oxygen species believed to play a major role in many photooxidation processes in connection with diverse photo-biological processes such as skin ageing or photocarcinogenesis. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxy-2,2-dimethyl-7-methoxy-1(2H)-benzopyran) is a potent ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12039
更新日期:2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期:2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett-Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00565.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期:1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An historical reference is followed by a review of cosmetic colours' regulations based on the EEC Directive with particular reference to the U.K. Cosmetic Products Regulations and their effect on formulation. ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00217.x
更新日期:1979-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was de...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x
更新日期:1985-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.x
更新日期:1998-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Wound healing involves the activity of epithelial cells and fibroblasts. This process is particularly accompanied by an increase in the proliferative capacity of the fibroblasts and by the biosynthesis of constitutive proteins of connective tissue. To study the action of wound healing drugs on the growth of f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00358.x
更新日期:1984-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::There is an increasing demand in general population regarding skin healthiness and improvement of aesthetical appearance, indicating that people require more information about how to treat healthy skin and to prevent skin disease. This study is the result of a campaign on healthy skin organized by the International So...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00287.x
更新日期:2005-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A technique was developed to evaluate the relative slip of ten test talcs and two control talcs (one with known good slip and one with known poor slip properties). The study was conducted under double-blind conditions with a naive panel of 19 subjects, who with minimal training ranked the 12 talcs. The rankin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00041.x
更新日期:1992-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期:2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期:1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Several studies have shown that a deterioration of skin properties, an impaired cutaneous microcirculatory function and an imbalance of autonomic nervous activity are observed in smokers and in patients with diabetes mellitus or Raynaud's phenomenon. These observations suggest that skin properties are associa...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12373
更新日期:2017-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) was regarded as new topical delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. The purpose of this study is to develop carrier systems for organic and inorganic sunscreens based on a matrix composed of carnauba wax and decyl oleate. Formulae (F1-F7) were prepared using ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00598.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00