Abstract:
OBJECTIVE:Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules). METHODS:Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). RESULTS:The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. CONCLUSION:This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance. OBJECTIF:La vitamine C et les peptides sont régulièrement utilisés dans les produits dermocosmétiques mais il existe peu d’études cliniques sur l’efficacité des formulations sur les signes du vieillissement cutané du visage. Trois études cliniques ont évalué l’efficacité d’une formule anti-âge contenant de la vitamine C naturelle (10%), des biopeptides (riz et lupin), de l’acide hyaluronique et de l’eau minéralisante volcanique de Vichy, dans un format d’ampoules en verre ambré, sans conservateur (ampoules Peptide-C). MÉTHODES: Une première étude a comparé par la technique de chlorure de Dansyl le renouvellement cellulaire avec la formulation ampoules Peptide-C et la peau non traitée chez 32 sujets féminins. La seconde étude, en ouvert, a évalué l’efficacité clinique sur les rides des ampoules Peptide-C en se reposant sur les Atlas Dynamiques (N=40) et les questionnaires d’auto-évaluation des sujets (N=47). La troisième étude, ouverte, a évalué les rides par quantification instrumentale avec l’analyse de projection de franges 3D (N=40) et les questionnaires d’autoévaluation des sujets (N=51). RÉSULTATS: Le renouvellement cellulaire était plus rapide pour la peau traitée avec des ampoules de Peptide-C comparées à la peau non traitée (17.1 jours contre 19.2 jours ; p<.0001). Dans l’étude 2, après 28 jours d’application des ampoules Peptide-C, l’évaluation clinique des rides de la patte d’oie, du front et des plis naso-labiaux a montré une amélioration de 9 %, 11 % et 5 %, respectivement (tous p<0,05 vs baseline). Sur 47 sujets, 77%, 64% et 79% ont indiqué que leur peau semblait respectivement lissée, que les ridules étaient moins visibles et que le teint de la peau était plus radieux. Dans l’étude 3, le nombre de rides a diminué de 11,5 % après 29 jours d’application des ampoules Peptide-C par rapport à la baseline (p<0,05) et 65 % des sujets ont répondu que les ridules étaient moins visibles. CONCLUSION:Cette combinaison d’ingrédients anti-âge dans un format d’ampoules, et une formulation minimaliste, a montré des résultats significatifs sur l’amélioration des rides faciales et de l’éclat du teint.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Escobar S,Valois A,Nielsen M,Closs B,Kerob Ddoi
10.1111/ics.12665subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2020-10-10 00:00:00eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pub_type
杂志文章abstract:INTRODUCTION:We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS:The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12529
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Hyaluronan (HA) plays a role in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In addition, HA has been shown to have different biological activities depending on its molecular weight. It has been reported that HA-mediated CD44 activation regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Therefore, the aim of this stu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12105
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期:2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Long cattle tendons were enzymatically disposed of lipoid and accompanying nitrogenous substances. Collagenous hydrolysate of average molecular mass M(a) = 0.830 +/- 1.206 kDa, suitable for application in skin and hair-care preparations, was obtained through hydrolysis by commercial protease (Bacillus subtilis) under ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00151.x
更新日期:2002-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:We investigated the association of psychosocial problems, menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes, and trends of smoking and use of cosmetics in our previous study. In this follow-up study, we researched psychiatric disorders and psychosocial problems in menopausal women. METHODS:We designed a cohort study w...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12081
更新日期:2013-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This study has evaluated the ultraviolet light transmission characteristics of human stratum corneum at the single cell level using a low light level video microscope to measure the mean percentage transmission of light at different wavelengths and the variation in transmission across the stratum corneum. Str...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00508.x
更新日期:1989-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A rapid method has been developed in order to compare the photostability of several sunscreen agents incorporated in the same type of emulsion. Thin films of the different preparations were spread on quartz plates and irradiated with a solar simulator. Differences in energy distribution according to wavelengt...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00002.x
更新日期:1988-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:This study focused on the formulation of lamellar lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) loaded with mulberry stem extract (MSE). METHODS:The LLC formulation tested used two oils: n-dodecane or tridecyl salicylate, a co-solvent (propylene glycol) and a single (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) or mixed surfactant system. The ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12116
更新日期:2014-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing gamma linolenic acid. In human dry skin the usual fatty aci...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00014.x
更新日期:1988-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine whether the coordination environment of copper in hair is affected by the shampoo used. METHODS:Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy to discriminate between mixed oxygen/nitrogen and mixed oxygen/sulphur coordination of copper after treatment with two different shampoos. RESULTS:C...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12178
更新日期:2015-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The effect of photodamage on facial stratum corneum (SC) is still poorly understood. OBJECTIVE:To describe the SC proteome from tape strippings of Caucasian SC from photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular (PA) site, a global analysis of photodamage on the skin will be developed leading to a bet...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12426
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The causative substances for axillary osmidrosis, which are often found in apocrine sweat, are the decomposed/denatured products of short-chain fatty acid and other biological metabolite compounds produced by axillary-resident bacteria. Conventional underarm deodorants suppress the process of odour production mostly b...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00322.x
更新日期:2006-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期:1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the past few years, the hair follicle has started revealing its beauty and mysteries. The existence of a growth and regeneration cycle, together with a unique tissue organization and complex regulatory network, make it a true paradigm of tissue homeostasis and dermal-epithelial crosstalk. In this brief review, I wi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.0412-5463.2001.00109.x
更新日期:2002-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Exposure to UV in humans resulting in sunburn triggers a complex series of events that are a mix of immediate and delayed damage mediation and healing. While studies on the effects of UV exposure on DNA damage and repair have been reported, changes in the oxidative modification of skin proteins are poorly und...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12365
更新日期:2017-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (2HP-beta-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x
更新日期:1999-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The study of ternary systems leads to the understanding of the physico-chemical aspect and allows the contribution of the different components to a cosmetic formulation to be developed. The present investigation was centred in the zone of transparent get belonging to a previously studied ternary system contai...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00490.x
更新日期:1989-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron mic...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00362.x
更新日期:2007-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The principles on which stability tests are based are reviewed. The need to differentiate between product stability and product-container compatibility is emphasized. Recognition of this distinction is fundamental to the efficient organisation and execution of stability tests. Attention is also drawn to the d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00423.x
更新日期:1985-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The goal of this work was to develop a novel polyurethane polymer coating for the surface of the hair that could be used for style setting via the shape memory effect (SME). The features of the films are in accordance with conventional hair styling methods used in the laboratory. METHODS:In this study, a new...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12294
更新日期:2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better unde...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12679
更新日期:2020-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The activity of thioglycolic acid, incorporated in a microemulsion, towards cystine residues present in keratin proteins has been investigated. In an attempt to relate the structural state of the microemulsions to cystine reactivity, an appropriate model system showing a large microemulsion domain with diverse...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00476.x
更新日期:1987-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Molecular chaperone, heat shock proteins (HSPs), stabilizes intracellular processes of cells under stress. Little is known about the role of molecular chaperone proteins in the skin pathology, rejuvenation and wound healing, or whether their expression is altered by environmental and physiological stress to the skin o...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00601.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00205.x
更新日期:1979-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期:1984-08-01 00:00:00