Abstract:
:The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural properties of the designed products was investigated. It has been shown that PGPR leads to smaller droplets than the other emulsifiers tested. This was attributed to the ability of PGPR to form elastic interfaces that slow the coalescence between droplets during the process. It was also observed that crystals of wax tend to form structures at the interface upon cooling that prevent coalescence during storage. These structures also prevent leakage of water into the continuous phase. No effect of the water content on the melting properties of the emulsions was observed. Upon addition of more than 10% water, softening of the material was measured, due to the overall decrease in solid content. Addition of crystalline material (hard paraffin) was successfully used to reinstate the material properties.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Le Révérend BJ,Taylor MS,Norton ITdoi
10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2011-06-01 00:00:00pages
263-8issue
3eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
33pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12049
更新日期:2013-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis Greasy hair is a common problem in Europe. The first step in developing anti-grease hair products must be to establish a sensitive protocol for measuring any changes in perceived hair greasiness. Sensitive clinical trials and in vivo evaluation methods of determining hair greasiness have been developed that s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1983.tb00329.x
更新日期:1983-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Hyaluronan (HA) plays a role in keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation. In addition, HA has been shown to have different biological activities depending on its molecular weight. It has been reported that HA-mediated CD44 activation regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Therefore, the aim of this stu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12105
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期:2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The synthesis of 5-alkoxy and 5-aryloxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-ones by reaction of (+)-5-hydroxymethylene-1,3,3-trimethyl-2-oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan-6-one with a number of saturated or unsaturated alcohols and phenols in order to check how substituents affected the fragrance, is des...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00108.x
更新日期:1995-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The color and odor of cosmetics have been shown to be crucial for affective states and able to influence autonomic responses. We report an original procedure to measure the effect on subjects of the color and odor of cosmetic products, and to quantify the correlation between objective (psychophysiological recording) a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2003.00196.x
更新日期:2003-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis A brief review of new techniques of assessing skin irritancy is presented. Some of the difficulties of assessing minor degrees of irritancy are discussed. ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00229.x
更新日期:1979-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The aim of this study was to determine how worthwhile it would be to combine a newly developed topical slimming product with customized dietary habits not based on calorie restriction, so as to improve the cellulite appearance of the skin. At the beginning of the study, a nutritionist recorded the dietary habits of ea...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00630.x
更新日期:2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lower eyelid sags as well as wrinkles represent age-related morphological changes of the skin surface. However, a quantitative method to evaluate lower eyelid sagging has not been previously established. We designed a new quantitative evaluation method that uses non-invasive skin scanning, which is based on the differ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00282.x
更新日期:2005-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Water homeostasis of the epidermis is important for the appearance and physical properties of the skin, as well as for water balance in the body. It depends on several factors, e.g. barrier quality, uptake of water into the epidermis, concentration of water-retaining humectants, and external humidity. Aquaporins (AQPs...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00402.x
更新日期:2007-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00744.x
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::It is well known that the shelf-life of products containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is quite unsatisfactory, and that in this area the adjustment to an acidic pH is the way usually recommended to improve DHA stability. The adoption of this rule, however, is a challenge for the cosmetic chemist not only because of the r...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00381.x
更新日期:2007-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:A novel microwave-assisted dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction (MADLLME) technique according to the solidification of a floating organic droplet (SFO) and graphite furnace atomic absorption spectrometry (GFAAS) used for the extraction and determination of lead ions in lipsticks and hair dyes made in diff...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12221
更新日期:2015-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The assessment of many aspects of the structure and biological dynamics of the stratum corneum can be conducted using calibrated stripping with adhesive-coated discs (SACD). Squamometry entails staining SACD samples with a toluidine blue-basic fuschsin ethanol-based solution and reading the colorimetric variable Chrom...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:
更新日期:2000-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face. MATERIAL AND METHODS:The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydra...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12488
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期:2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Microbiological quality control of personal care products using traditional methods can take between 5 and 7 days to complete. This is frequently the rate limiting step in product release. Companies are looking to improve manufacturing efficiencies and to maximize resources by releasing products faster. ATP biolumines...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171736.x
更新日期:1998-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:INTRODUCTION:We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS:The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12529
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ability of baseline transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements to predict the response of healthy subjects to a standard soap chamber irritation insult was evaluated. Chambers containing surfactant solutions were applied to the forearms of normal volunteers for five consecutive days. TEWL was measured ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1986.tb00452.x
更新日期:1986-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Solid lipid nanoparticle (SLN) was regarded as new topical delivery systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients. The purpose of this study is to develop carrier systems for organic and inorganic sunscreens based on a matrix composed of carnauba wax and decyl oleate. Formulae (F1-F7) were prepared using ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00598.x
更新日期:2011-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::The stability constants for the inclusion of fragrance materials with 2-hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (2HP-beta-C yD) in aqueous solution have been determined by the static head-space method. The 1:1 stability constants obtained by this method were in reasonable agreement with the corresponding values in the literat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203156.x
更新日期:1999-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis We have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00535.x
更新日期:1990-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In recent years the importance of sphingolipids (cerebrosides, sphingomyelin, ceramides, sphingosine-1-phospate, etc.) in skin biology is receiving an increasing interest. Not only are ceramides essential for the barrier function of the skin, especially through their phytosphingosine, sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingos...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00394.x
更新日期:2007-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This paper reports preliminary results of a study carried out on liquid crystal emulsions added to three different inorganic sunscreens: ultrafine zinc oxide, ultrafine titanium dioxide (inorganic-treated) and ultrafine titanium dioxide (organic-treated hydrophobically). The aim of the work was to investigate...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00101.x
更新日期:1994-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00