Abstract:
:Skin firmness, elasticity and tone are gradually lost with age. These changes originate in the dermis and correspond to a decrease in the ability of cells, particularly the fibroblasts, to regenerate the molecules which make up the extracellular matrix. Skin ageing is also characterized by a reduction of the epidermal thickness and by a flattening of the basal membrane. The recent development of two 3-dimensional culture systems, in which the cells develop within a porous structure reproducing the extracellular matrix of the human dermis, is a way of reproducing in vivo conditions and demonstrating the biological effects of anti-ageing compounds. The dermal equivalent model used in this study is composed of a dermal matrix made of collagen-chitosan-glycosaminoglycans populated by normal human fibroblasts which synthesized their own extracellular matrix. A skin equivalent model is obtained by the cell culture of normal human keratinocytes onto a dermal equivalent elevated at the air-liquid interface. Such models were used to prove anti-ageing activity of promising compounds. Cosmetic Science has used many protein hydrolysates in order to fight skin ageing, but up to now, these natural peptides were poorly studied, and their efficacy poorly demonstrated. Eight protein hydrolysates were screened in a proliferation study in monolayered cultures giving two selected polypeptides. A soya derived peptide was used for an efficiency study in 3-dimensional models. In the dermal equivalent model, this peptide increased fibroblast proliferation by 40% and led to a stimulation of collagen formation (165%) and elastin (116%) synthesis. The effect of this soya peptide on glycosaminoglycan synthesis was also significant, with increases of 36% for chondroitin-4-sulfate and 68% for hyaluronic acid. These results were confirmed using a skin equivalent model. In this model, the soya peptide increased the thickness of the epidermis.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Frei V,Perrier E,Orly I,Huc A,Augustin C,Damour Odoi
10.1046/j.1467-2494.1998.171748.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
1998-06-01 00:00:00pages
159-73issue
3eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS171748journal_volume
20pub_type
杂志文章abstract:OBJECTIVE:As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12635
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Several treatments for skin whitening are available today, but few of them are completely adequate, especially owing to the carcinogenic potential attributed to classical drugs like hydroquinone, arbutin and kojic acid. To provide an alternative and safer technology for whitening, we developed two botanical compounds ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00736.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期:1985-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12459
更新日期:2018-04-20 00:00:00
abstract::This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi-disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical ('medical') treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosm...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00741.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better unde...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12679
更新日期:2020-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Several studies have shown that a deterioration of skin properties, an impaired cutaneous microcirculatory function and an imbalance of autonomic nervous activity are observed in smokers and in patients with diabetes mellitus or Raynaud's phenomenon. These observations suggest that skin properties are associa...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12373
更新日期:2017-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora ('White Peony') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12309
更新日期:2016-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12392
更新日期:2017-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:In this study, the influence of three cosmetically relevant, priorly characterized vehicles on skin hydration, sebum content and transepidermal water loss was investigated. The chosen vehicles included a liposomal pre-formulation, a multiple W/O/W emulsion and a microemulsion gel. The in vivo effects of these...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12180
更新日期:2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12042
更新日期:2013-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期:2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of this study was to clarify the effects of different body washing methods on skin texture. METHODS:Subjects were nine healthy women in their 20s. Skin on the inside of the forearms was washed every day for 4 weeks with protective washing (right forearm) and with non-protective washing (left fo...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12114
更新日期:2014-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:In order to comply with the European legislation concerning the risk assessment of skin sensitizers, considerable progress has been made in developing alternative methods, such as human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). H-CLAT is based on cytometric measurement of fluorescence emitted by anti-CD54 and anti...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12530
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To study the permeation of liquiritigenin (LQG) and liquiritin (LQ) as licorice flavonoids into the skin, we prepared ceramide liposome-in-cellulose hydrogel complex system. METHODS:Liposome-in-hydrogel complex systems were developed by incorporating ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogels by the swellin...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12156
更新日期:2014-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The manufacturing of toiletries is a complex procedure and many process routes are possible for a given formulation. In the past, considerable attention has been given to the design of manufacturing equipment but there has been relatively little appreciation of the influence of physicochemical interactions du...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1980.tb00235.x
更新日期:1980-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x
更新日期:1999-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis We have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00535.x
更新日期:1990-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:The deposit and adherence of particulate matter (PM) from aerial pollution onto the surface of human hair is a poorly studied phenomenon. OBJECTIVES:(i) To reproduce in vitro the deposit of known PM on standardized hair swatches in a closed box, (ii) to compare in vitro data with those obtained under 'real-...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12416
更新日期:2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期:2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Kajal and surma are eye cosmetics extensively used in Indian subcontinent. Kajal is prepared by burning of vegetable oil and butter oil while surma by grinding of the stones. High performance liquid chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry instruments were used for quantification and confirmation of 16 ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00497.x
更新日期:2009-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,多中心研究
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00748.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Recently, our group reported that extracts prepared from the Australian native plant Terminalia ferdinandiana Exell. are potent inhibitors of the growth malodorous bacteria with similar efficacy to triclosan and through these results, we highlighted a potential biological alternative to the current chemical a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12567
更新日期:2019-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In the last few years a lot of attention has been paid to the development of the in vitro models which would substitute for animals in cutaneous irritancy studies. These models explore either organ or explant cultures using freshly excised skin or serial cultures of isolated skin cells (epidermal keratinocyte...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00058.x
更新日期:1992-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00