Abstract:
:Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prostaglandin E(2) (PGE(2)). To study this activity in detail and to create cosmetically useful fragrances with the potential to reduce a key marker of skin irritancy in keratinocytes, an initial screening with pig blood platelets was conducted on 900 perfumery raw materials. Active compounds were then validated in a human keratinocyte cell line. Compounds which successfully reduced PGE(2) formation in this assay were used for the creation of active fragrances. These final fragrances reduced PGE(2) formation by >80% when dosed at 0.8 mug mL(-1) to keratinocytes. Application of such a fragrance in a hydrogel allowed reduction of UVB-induced PGE(2) formation in reconstituted epidermis (MatTec EpiDerm(TM)). Similarly, antiperspirant-induced formation of PGE(2) in reconstituted epidermis was reduced to background levels if these novel fragrances were used in the antiperspirant formulation. In conclusion, fragrances with this added cosmetic benefit can be created based on a database from a comprehensive screening. These fragrances may find use as a part of a formulation strategy optimizing each part of a cosmetic formulation for optimal product mildness.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Natsch A,Wasescha Mdoi
10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2007-10-01 00:00:00pages
369-76issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS392journal_volume
29pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Nowadays, flavonoids are present in many cosmetic formulations, mainly in the form of plant extracts. The main reason of still increasing popularity of these substances is their beneficial biochemical activity. The main factor affecting activity of flavonoids in the skin is their skin penetration ability. The studies ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00166.x
更新日期:2002-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis In this study a compact, hand-held, solid state erythema meter using light emitting diodes is described. This device has been constructed and used to compare with visual assessments of ultraviolet radiation in human subjects. A statistically significant correlation was obtained between erythema index and visu...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00521.x
更新日期:1990-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The non-saponifiable lipidic fractions of avocado and soya bean applied percutaneously to hairless rats for 15 days had been shown to produce biochemical modifications of dermal connective tissue components: increases of soluble collagen and of the ratio soluble collagen/insoluble collagen. In this present st...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1982.tb00310.x
更新日期:1982-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Sun exposure during leisure activity evokes fatigue. We employed the Advanced Trail Making Test (ATMT), a recently developed objective method of evaluating brain function performance used to measure mental fatigue, for objective determination of fatigue development caused by solar exposure to the human body. First, a ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.0142-5463.2004.00200.x
更新日期:2004-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期:2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine whether the coordination environment of copper in hair is affected by the shampoo used. METHODS:Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy to discriminate between mixed oxygen/nitrogen and mixed oxygen/sulphur coordination of copper after treatment with two different shampoos. RESULTS:C...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12178
更新日期:2015-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Cutaneous disorders can impact on the psycho-social well-being of children and adults alike, which has been reviewed elsewhere (Body Image 27, 2018 and 98). The present review sets out to evaluate progressions in skin masking and camouflaging techniques together with evaluating the efficacy of these. There do...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12575
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::This study was a pilot project, set up to assess ageing skin using a multi-disciplinary approach. The main aim of this study was to evaluate whether the use of more radical ('medical') treatments in the management of skin ageing would bring superior results and ultimately make people look younger, than the use of cosm...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00741.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Stratum corneum (SC) bilayer lipids, specifically fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol, contribute to the permeability barrier function of the skin. Normal skin cleansing is associated with damage to the SC lipids because cleanser surfactants, in addition to providing the desired effect of solubilizing and facilitat...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12042
更新日期:2013-08-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis We have examined the relationship between human axillary skin microflora and underarm odour (UAO), in particular, the ability of cutaneous bacteria to transform steroids. A study was made of bacterial population density and odour intensity of the axillae of 34 normal male subjects. There was a statistically s...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00535.x
更新日期:1990-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS:Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were te...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12459
更新日期:2018-04-20 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::This work describes the development, validation and application of a simple and fast high-performance liquid chromatography-with diode array dectection (HPLC-DAD) method for the determination of eight sunscreen agents: benzophenone-3, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate (used in...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00703.x
更新日期:2012-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x
更新日期:2006-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 临床试验,杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x
更新日期:2008-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The addition of water to lipsticks in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is an attractive opportunity for cosmetics manufacturers to deliver hydrophilic molecules to the consumers, as well as improving the moisturizing properties. In this work, the effect of the emulsifier type and water content on the structural pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00624.x
更新日期:2011-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To evaluate wrinkle improvement and safety of a novel cosmetic dissolving microneedle patches loaded with two active compounds with different hydrophilicities, namely ascorbic acid and retinyl retinoate. METHODS:Clinical studies were performed on 24 Korean women for 12 weeks. Patients in group A were treated...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/ics.12115
更新日期:2014-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00463.x
更新日期:1987-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期:2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12635
更新日期:2020-08-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Arbutin is an effective agent for the treatment of melanin disorders. Arbutin may be converted to hydroquinone under conditions of high temperature, ultraviolet (UV) radiation and dilute acid. The aim of the current study was to develop an analytical method to determine the levels of arbutin and hydroquinone ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12228
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::The comparison of the results of microscopic, conductimetric and rheologic analyses carried out on the same triple W/O/W emulsion, immediately following its manufacture and 10 years later, indicates the remarkable stability of such system. This stability illustrates the great potential of this formula in the protectio...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00020.x
更新日期:2000-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The aim of this work was to evaluate several plant extracts with regard to ultraviolet absorption spectra in view of a possible application as antisolar agents. Liquid and dry extracts of Hamamelis virginiana, Matricaria recutita, Aesculus hippocastanum, Rhamnus purshiana and Cinnamomum zeylanicum were prepar...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00140.x
更新日期:1996-06-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Development of an international harmonized in vitro method for sun protection factor (SPF) assessment is currently in progress because of the lack of both reproducibility and accuracy in the current methodology. The aim of this article was to focus on the principle and mathematical aspects (Part I) of a new a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/ics.12226
更新日期:2015-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期:2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Various models of reconstructed epidermis already provide useful tools for safety and efficacy assessment of cosmetic products. However, the majority of these in vitro models are composed of keratinocytes only. Recently, the introduction of melanocytes into epidermal reconstructs has considerably enlarged their field ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183571.x
更新日期:1999-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The present investigation describes a comparative study for the design of innovative topical formulation for skin hydration. In particular, different colloidal forms based on lipidic components have been produced and characterized. Morphology and dimensional distribution have been investigated by means of electron mic...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00362.x
更新日期:2007-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis This report utilizes a new procedure based on epidermal stripping to analyse unlabelled skin fatty acids. This technique was applied to the study of human dry skin treated with blackcurrant seed oil, an essential fatty acid rich lipid also containing gamma linolenic acid. In human dry skin the usual fatty aci...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00014.x
更新日期:1988-08-01 00:00:00