Abstract：
:The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is presently uncertain how the particles' properties affect the perceived skin feel. Well-trained panellists usually assess the perceived skin feel; however, these tests are time-consuming and by nature subjective. To address this complexity, the authors have systematically investigated various suspensions of cosmetic powders with regard to the perceived skin feel after application. Furthermore, an in vitro friction measurement set-up was developed which features a tribological contact similar to the mechanical properties and the topography of the contact between finger tip and human skin. A correlation was found between the friction coefficients determined in vitro and the perceived skin feel after sample application (as assessed by a descriptive panel). The results indicate that cosmetic powder particles should be small with a rather irregular shape to better lubricate the tribological contact between finger tip and skin surface, which leads to a more 'powdery' skin feel. It is suggested to carry out further tests with different powder particles or other skin care formulations to fully understand the underlying mechanisms of skin feel improvement and to validate or even partly replace the results of panel testing.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Timm K,Myant C,Nuguid H,Spikes HA,Grunze Mdoi
10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
2012-10-01 00:00:00pages
458-65issue
5eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494journal_volume
34pub_type
杂志文章abstract：:Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00574.x
更新日期：2010-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVES:Quantification of stratum corneum (SC) protein levels from tape strippings is frequently used to investigate skin conditions, to correct for amounts of SC protein removed in SC biomarker studies and to determine distribution of topically applied ingredients. In recent years, a rapid and convenient method for...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12274
更新日期：2016-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The phase diagram water, phenethyl alcohol and laureth 4 was determined and the variation of the vapour pressure of the alcohol was determined during evaporation using gas chromatographic head-space analysis. The phase changes during evaporation were estimated from the phase diagram and compared to the appearance of t...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171722.x
更新日期：1997-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期：1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Many studies have presented stress-strain relationship of human hair, but most of them have been based on an engineering stress-strain curve, which is not a true representation of stress-strain behaviour. In this study, a more accurate 'true' stress-strain curve of human hair was determined by applying optical techniq...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12031
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and o...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00428.x
更新日期：2008-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Skin acts a major target as well as a principle barrier for topical/transdermal drug delivery. Despite the many advantages of this system, the major obstacle is the low diffusion rate of drugs across the stratum corneum. Several methods have been assessed to increase the permeation rate of drugs temporarily. One simpl...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00264.x
更新日期：2005-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:A novel ex vivo technique has been used to assess the sand/rub resistance of topical sunscreens. The technique is based on transmission spectrometry using excised human epidermis as the substrate. The sun protection factors (SPFs) of 10 sunscreen products were measured prior to, and after agitation with sand. It was f...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00027.x
更新日期：2000-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The dichlorophenyl-imidazoldioxolan elubiol is used for skin and hair care in subjects with oily skin or dandruff. A study was conducted in 14 men to evaluate by non-invasive methods the effect of long-term use of elubiol on the sebum output at the skin surface. Measures were made using the Sebumeter SM810 an...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1996.tb00152.x
更新日期：1996-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis A technique was developed to evaluate the relative slip of ten test talcs and two control talcs (one with known good slip and one with known poor slip properties). The study was conducted under double-blind conditions with a naive panel of 19 subjects, who with minimal training ranked the 12 talcs. The rankin...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1992.tb00041.x
更新日期：1992-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:The aim of the study was to develop formulations to deliver physiological lipids into skin in an attempt to repair defective barrier function. METHODS:Physiological cholesterol and linoleic acid were incorporated into basic cream and non-ionic cream to prepare skin repair formulations. Homogeneity and storag...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12491
更新日期：2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Summary Nowadays, cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical forms must undergo many controls, i.e. in-process controls on the finished product and stability testing. The authors suggest using first derivative spectroscopy for active ingredients assay presenting an ultra-violet absorption. It offers the advantage of a direct ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00087.x
更新日期：1994-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期：1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis Oil/water (o/w) microemulsions containing propranolol were studied. Isopropylmyristate was used as the oil, Tween 60 as a surfactant, butanol as a co-surfactant and a buffer of pH 6.5 for the continuous phase. The lipophilicity of propranolol was enhanced by formation of lipophilic ion-pairs to obtain a dispe...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1988.tb00026.x
更新日期：1988-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis An investigation has been carried out into the synthesis of quaternary ammonium salts of triglycerides. The aim of this work was to produce such compounds without breaking the triglyceride skeleton. The reaction of chloracetyl chloride with the triglyceride of ricinoleic acid which is the major constituent (8...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00560.x
更新日期：1991-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期：2007-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:This study focused on the formulation of lamellar lyotropic liquid crystal (LLC) loaded with mulberry stem extract (MSE). METHODS:The LLC formulation tested used two oils: n-dodecane or tridecyl salicylate, a co-solvent (propylene glycol) and a single (PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate) or mixed surfactant system. The ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12116
更新日期：2014-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The mechanism of colour change during the pigment dispersion process and during powder application to the skin surface was studied by examining the colour extension properties of Yellow. Red, and Black iron oxides in white powder bases. A new measure for the evaluation of the degree of colour extension was de...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00391.x
更新日期：1985-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The self-diffusion of salicylic acid has been monitored radiochemically through pigskins (whole and dermal) and human skins (whole, dermal and epidermal). The effects of pH, temperature and changing dimethyl formamide (DMF) concentration on the penetration of salicylic acid through the various skin membranes ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1981.tb00292.x
更新日期：1981-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Reconstructed human epidermis models (RHE) constitute an innovative alternative to study phototoxicity and photoprotection in the cosmetic industry. However, little information is currently available concerning the harmful effects of solar-simulated radiation (SSR) in these in vitro skin models. In this study, the pho...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00506.x
更新日期：2009-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Lower eyelid sags as well as wrinkles represent age-related morphological changes of the skin surface. However, a quantitative method to evaluate lower eyelid sagging has not been previously established. We designed a new quantitative evaluation method that uses non-invasive skin scanning, which is based on the differ...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00282.x
更新日期：2005-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To study the permeation of liquiritigenin (LQG) and liquiritin (LQ) as licorice flavonoids into the skin, we prepared ceramide liposome-in-cellulose hydrogel complex system. METHODS:Liposome-in-hydrogel complex systems were developed by incorporating ceramide liposomes into cellulose hydrogels by the swellin...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12156
更新日期：2014-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis In this study a compact, hand-held, solid state erythema meter using light emitting diodes is described. This device has been constructed and used to compare with visual assessments of ultraviolet radiation in human subjects. A statistically significant correlation was obtained between erythema index and visu...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1990.tb00521.x
更新日期：1990-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:Axillary wetness represents an unwanted effect of the physiologically vital sweating mechanism, especially when it becomes excessive. Cosmetic products reducing sweat secretion rely on aluminium salts as the active ingredient acting by physically blocking the sweat gland. Driven by the interest to better unde...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12679
更新日期：2020-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期：1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To study the effects of addition of a redox metal, copper, antioxidants and metal chelators on the formation of free radicals in natural white Caucasian hair subsequently exposed to UV light. Three different methods, electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR), a fluorescent probe for hydroxyl radical formation (te...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12601
更新日期：2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Synopsis The influence of the following hydrophilic polymers on the stability of emulsions has been studied: sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, agar-agar, water dispersible clay, and a neutralized polyethylene acid. The oil phases used were paraffin oil, olive oil and a synthetic C(8)-C(12) trigly...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00374.x
更新日期：1984-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteer...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00352.x
更新日期：2006-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：OBJECTIVE:To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion. METHODS:Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according...
journal_title：International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1111/ics.12461
更新日期：2018-05-05 00:00:00
