Abstract:
:Synopsis An O/W/O multiple emulsion was formulated using almond oil as the inner phase and liquid paraffin as the outer phase. The properties of the formulation ingredients were explored: effect of the type of primary emulsifier, and the nature and concentration of the secondary emulsifier. The volume fraction of the internal phase in the multiple emulsion was also optimized with regard to the stability. The multiple systems were assessed by evaluating several parameters such as the macroscopic aspect, the droplet size, the direction of the dispersion and the accelerated stability under centrifugation or elevated temperature. The effect of some additives (ozokerite, benzyl alcohol and glycerol) was examined. Whatever additive was used, a decrease in the formulation stability, which could be attributed to different phenomena, was observed. Furthermore, an analytical procedure was developed for studying the release of an active principle, alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). This release could be a result of the instability of the multiple droplets or a diffusion through the water layer membrane. This procedure was based on the difference of chemical type between the two oil phases: mineral outer phase and fatty inner phase. Two chromatographic methods were used: a gas chromatographic assay of oleic acid which is the main component of the fatty phase, and a liquid chromatographic assay for the alpha-tocopherol, encapsulated in the inner phase. The presence of oleic acid in the paraffin phase originated from a rupture of the multiple droplets, whereas the presence of alpha-tocopherol in the outer phase could be due both to a diffusion phenomenon and to the instability of the formulation. The results obtained showed that only the rupture of the droplets occurred. Moreover, a part of the alpha-tocopherol was retained by Hypermer A 60 used as an emulsifier in the formulation.
journal_name
Int J Cosmet Scijournal_title
International journal of cosmetic scienceauthors
Baillet A,Pirishi E,Vaution C,Grossiord JL,Ferrier-Baylocq D,Seiller Mdoi
10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00077.xsubject
Has Abstractpub_date
1994-02-01 00:00:00pages
1-15issue
1eissn
0142-5463issn
1468-2494pii
ICS1journal_volume
16pub_type
杂志文章abstract::Synopsis The study of ternary systems leads to the understanding of the physico-chemical aspect and allows the contribution of the different components to a cosmetic formulation to be developed. The present investigation was centred in the zone of transparent get belonging to a previously studied ternary system contai...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1989.tb00490.x
更新日期:1989-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Although the olfactory receptor OR2AT4 was described as involved in epidermal renewal, there is no data about a cosmetic active ingredient activating this receptor. The aim of this research work was thus to identify a natural molecule binding to this receptor in order to stimulate keratinocyte migration. MET...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12526
更新日期:2019-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) is an extracellular enzyme that catalyses the cross-linking between microfibrils and tropoelastin (TE), thereby ensuring elastic fibre functionality. With ageing, LOXL expression decreases, thus participating in the loss of skin elasticity. In a previous study, we showed that a dill seed extr...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00606.x
更新日期:2011-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::In order to understand the skin benefits of emollient oil ingredients in topical skin moisturizers, one single highly popular in vivo method (corneometry), even when executed to perfection, does not suffice. A systematical exploration using a combination of bioengineering techniques shows how a previously unaccounted ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00744.x
更新日期:2012-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light au...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00314_3.x
更新日期:2006-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::There are a variety of biological mechanisms that contribute to specific characteristics of ageing skin; for example, the loss of skin structure proteins, increased susceptibility to UV-induced pigmentation and/or loss of hydration. Each of these biological processes is influenced by specific groups of genes. In this ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00645.x
更新日期:2011-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Summary The authors studied the combination of Kathon(R) CG and Germall(R) II (0.1%-0.1%) in hydrophilic creams. Their objective was to find an alternative to the use of parabens. Kathon(R) CG was chosen due to its antimicrobial effectiveness and its broad spectrum of activity. It must be indicated, however, that it h...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1987.tb00463.x
更新日期:1987-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:BACKGROUND:Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Several types of human tests are used widely for the evaluation of cosmetics including single patch tests, in-use tests, human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT). However, there is no clear and well-defined publi...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12095
更新日期:2014-02-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis An objectivised sensorial method for evaluating the effects of shampoos on the appearance and manageability of the hair is described. Two different shampoos for greasy hair were applied twice weekly for a period of 4 weeks to the right and left sides (split-head tests) of six subjects having greasy hair, the ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00205.x
更新日期:1979-04-01 00:00:00
abstract::The photostabilities of four sunscreen products have been assessed in vitro by applying sunscreen to a substrate and measuring the spectral transmission prior to, and after exposure to a source of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Results were independent of whether an application thickness of 1 or 2 mg/cm ; 2 was used, and...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.203163.x
更新日期:1999-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The absorption of ultraviolet light by a film of sunscreen product on the surface of the skin is considered from a theoretical standpoint. It is apparent that Beer-Lambert's Law would predict protection factors in excess of the actual factors by many orders of magnitude. The possible reasons for this are disc...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00417.x
更新日期:1985-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) has been the most important secondary surfactant for personal-cleansing products for a long time. Its excellent toxicological profile is an important reason for its increasing use in oral-care products. Recently it has gained interest for further applications such as household cleaners, d...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171719.x
更新日期:1997-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::The perceived skin feel during and after application of skin care products is highly important to the consumer and therefore to cosmetic formulators. Powder particles are commonly incorporated in cosmetic formulations to improve their sensory properties. Although a large variety of cosmetic powders is available, it is...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00734.x
更新日期:2012-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::In the present contribution, the properties of dipropylene glycol isobornyl ether (Pribelance) are discussed, especially in the context of microemulsion and emulsion formulations. Pribelance is a new low-toxic anti-foaming hydrotrope with excellent co-surfactant properties that has some similarities with long-chain al...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00460.x
更新日期:2008-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:INTRODUCTION:We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS:The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12529
更新日期:2019-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::The phase diagram water, phenethyl alcohol and laureth 4 was determined and the variation of the vapour pressure of the alcohol was determined during evaporation using gas chromatographic head-space analysis. The phase changes during evaporation were estimated from the phase diagram and compared to the appearance of t...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171722.x
更新日期:1997-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Nowadays, flavonoids are present in many cosmetic formulations, mainly in the form of plant extracts. The main reason of still increasing popularity of these substances is their beneficial biochemical activity. The main factor affecting activity of flavonoids in the skin is their skin penetration ability. The studies ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00166.x
更新日期:2002-12-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face. MATERIAL AND METHODS:The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydra...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12488
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Antioxidants play a vital role in protecting the skin from environmental distress. As the skin is constantly exposed to harmful UV radiation, endogenous antioxidants present in the superficial layers of the skin neutralize reactive oxygen species. Over time, antioxidants become depleted and loss their protective effec...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00728.x
更新日期:2013-02-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Sensory perceptions and performance are important to the success of a lipstick formulation, but in vivo evaluation can be expensive and time-consuming. The goal of this work was to develop and use laboratory test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick. METHODS:Twelve model lips...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12482
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::On a daily basis, the skin is exposed to many environmental stressors and insults. Over a 24-h natural cycle, during the day, the skin is focused on protection; while at night, the skin is focused on repairing damage that occurred during daytime and getting ready for the next morning. Circadian rhythm provides the pre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12572
更新日期:2019-12-01 00:00:00
abstract::Scars are well known to have a stratum corneum that is malfunctional. Increases in transepidermal water loss and decreases in stratum corneum capacitance and conductance have been reported. Occlusion therapy is a well-known route to improving the signs and symptoms of scarring. Until recently that has been assumed to ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.751.x
更新日期:2012-09-23 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The ocular irritation potential of 107 cosmetics and toiletries was compared using the rabbit's eye Draize test (IOMA), a cytotoxicity in vitro method (CFIO), and the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). There was a good correlation between both alternative methods and the Draize test. Non-corre...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00124.x
更新日期:1995-10-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.) is a seed crop rich in bioactive compounds including phytoecdysones (especially 20-hydroxyecdysone, 20HE), polyphenols, proteins and essential fatty acids. We previously reported a method to leach and concentrate quinoa bioactives into a complex phytochemical mixture termed ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12185
更新日期:2015-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:To understand the drivers of body skin discomfort and to validate a new index to assess its severity. This index should be sensitive enough to capture changes in response to treatment. METHODS:Previous consumer studies suggested seven potential main dimensions behind skin discomfort. Four of them refer to se...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12490
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Good water-impermeable barrier function is vital for healthy skin. Abnormality of the barrier function is observed in a variety of skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and contact dermatitis. Moreover, repeated barrier disruption induces epidermal hyperplasia and inflammation. On the other hand, acceler...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章,评审
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00487.x
更新日期:2009-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Lipsticks and lip care products may contain saturated hydrocarbons which either stem from mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) or are synthetic, that is polyolefin oligomeric saturated hydrocarbons (POSH). Some of these hydrocarbons are strongly accumulated and form granulomas in human tissues, which pro...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12276
更新日期:2016-04-01 00:00:00
abstract:OBJECTIVE:Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) is widely used as an anti-fungal active in commercial anti-dandruff (AD) shampoos. The AD efficacy of ZnPT is highly dependent on the deposition of ZnPT particles onto the scalp during the process of shampoo application and rinse-off. Since ZnPT materials with different particle sizes a...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/ics.12493
更新日期:2018-10-01 00:00:00
abstract::Synopsis The modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H(2)O(2)) or reductive (HSO(3)Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microcmulsions with H(2)O(2) or NaSO(3)H ...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00404.x
更新日期:1985-06-01 00:00:00
abstract::Essential oils and certain perfumery raw materials exhibit a wide range of beneficial biological activities. Besides the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity, the anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects are most often cited. One specific mode of action is the reduction of the formation of the key mediator prosta...
journal_title:International journal of cosmetic science
pub_type: 杂志文章
doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2007.00392.x
更新日期:2007-10-01 00:00:00