Abstract:
:The permeation of essential oils through SkinEthic reconstructed human epidermis, (RHE), was studied in vitro to establish a convenient tool to monitor the kinetics of release of active principles from cosmetic formulations. Twelve days old human epidermis held on polycarbonate disks was revitalized by addition of growth medium and incubated at 37 degrees C in 5% CO(2) atmosphere for five days prior to investigation. A system of six custom designed glass Franz-type diffusion cells were used for the permeation studies at 34 degrees C. The diffusion kinetic for 8 selected terpenes (camphor, carvone, 1,8-cineole, linalool, menthol, alpha-thujone, menthone, t-anethole), chosen as analytical markers of a mixture of plant essential oils contained in a cosmetic formulation, was probed by HS/SPME-GC-MS analysis and elaborated according to Fick's first law to obtain skin permeability coefficients (P(S) = 1.51, 1.47, 1.36, 0.80, 0.62, 0.40 and 0.14x10(-3) cm/h, respectively). The method proved to be sensitive, simple and reproducible, and RHE represents a convenient model for safety/quality assessment of cosmetic formulations.
journal_name
J Pharm Biomed Analjournal_title
Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysisauthors
Gabbanini S,Lucchi E,Carli M,Berlini E,Minghetti A,Valgimigli Ldoi
10.1016/j.jpba.2009.05.018subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2009-10-15 00:00:00pages
370-6issue
3eissn
0731-7085issn
1873-264Xpii
S0731-7085(09)00313-6journal_volume
50pub_type
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