Abstract：
:The purpose of this review is to explore existing research on the physiological aspects of difficult rock climbing. Findings will be categorized into the areas of an athlete profile and an activity model. An objective here is to describe high-level climbing performance; thus the focus will primarily be on studies that involve performances at the 5.11/6c (YDS/French) level of difficulty or higher. Studies have found climbers to be small in stature with low body mass and low body fat. Although absolute strength values are not unusual, strength to body mass ratio is high in accomplished climbers. There is evidence that muscular endurance and high upper body power are important. Climbers do not typically possess extremely high aerobic power, typically averaging between 52-55 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) for maximum oxygen uptake. Performance time for a typical ascent ranges from 2 to 7 min and oxygen uptake (VO2) averages around 20-25 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) over this period. Peaks of over 30 ml.kg(-1).min(-1) for VO2 have been reported. VO2 tends to plateau during sustained climbing yet remains elevated into the post-climb recovery period. Blood lactate accumulates during ascent and remains elevated for over 20 min post-climbing. Handgrip endurance decreases to a greater degree than handgrip strength with severe climbing. On the basis of this review, it appears that a specific training program for high-level climbing would include components for developing high, though not elite-level, aerobic power; specific muscular strength and endurance; ATP-PC and anaerobic glycolysis system power and capacity; and some minimum range of motion for leg and arm movements.
journal_name
Eur J Appl Physioljournal_title
European journal of applied physiologyauthors
Watts PBdoi
10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7keywords:
subject
Has Abstractpub_date
2004-04-01 00:00:00pages
361-72issue
4eissn
1439-6319issn
1439-6327journal_volume
91pub_type
杂志文章,评审abstract：:Evidence suggests that strong ions can exist reversibly bound to proteins in a pH-dependent manner and that they can be recruited into the biological solution, modulating its strong ion difference in a process that opposes the acid base disturbances imposed on the system. These recruitable strong ions represent the so...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-010-1803-1
更新日期：2011-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:To examine and compare the acute effects of moderate-intensity continuous and accumulated exercise in three bouts with different intervals on arterial stiffness. METHOD:Nineteen healthy young males (mean age = 24.7 years) were randomized to no-exercise control (CON), continuous exercise (CE, 30-min cycling), a...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-015-3195-8
更新日期：2015-10-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The purpose of this study was to examine the physiological effects of 3000-m swimming on subsequent 3-h cycling time trial performance in ultraendurance triathletes. Eight highly trained ultraendurance triathletes [mean (SEM) age 34 (2) years, body fat 12.5 (0.8)%, maximum oxygen consumption 63.2 (2.1) ml x kg(-1) x m...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 临床试验,杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s004210000229
更新日期：2000-09-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The protective effect of short-term creatine supplementation (CrS) upon markers of strenuous contractile activity-induced damage in human and rat skeletal muscles was investigated. Eight Ironman triathletes were randomized into the placebo (Pl; n = 4) and creatine-supplemented (CrS; n = 4) groups. Five days prior to t...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-009-1305-1
更新日期：2010-03-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The maximal lactate steady state (MLSS) is defined as the highest blood lactate concentration that can be maintained over time without a continual blood lactate accumulation. The objective of the present study was to analyze the effects of pedal cadence (50 vs. 100 rev min(-1)) on MLSS and the exercise workload at MLS...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-005-0090-8
更新日期：2006-03-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:The purposes of this study were to evaluate the effect of endurance training on central fatigue development and recovery. METHODS:A control group was compared to a training group, which followed an 8-week endurance-training program, consisting in low-force concentric and isometric contractions. Before (PRE) an...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-015-3123-y
更新日期：2015-07-01 00:00:00
abstract：:No studies have considered whether a firefighter's boots are a factor influencing physiological responses. The purpose of this study was to examine physiological responses to a fire simulation activity (stair climb) in professional firefighters wearing rubber boots (RB) and leather boots (LB). Twelve professional fire...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 临床试验,杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-009-1092-8
更新日期：2009-09-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The neuregulin/erbB-signaling axis contributes to the development and growth of multiple mammalian tissues including skeletal muscle. In this study, we sought to characterize the native expression of this system in human skeletal muscle and test the hypothesis that a program of progressive resistance training (PRT) wo...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-005-1333-4
更新日期：2005-07-01 00:00:00
abstract：:To examine the effect of 6-week of high-intensity interval training (HIT) and of 6-week of detraining on the VO2/Work Rate (WR) relationship and on the slow component of VO2, nine young male adults performed on cycle ergometer, before, after training and after detraining, an incremental exercise (IE), and a 6-min cons...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-006-0386-3
更新日期：2007-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The purpose of the study was to investigate the characteristics of shock attenuation during high-speed running. Maximal running speed was identified for each subject [n = 8 males, 25 (SD 4.6) years; 80 (8.9) kg; 1.79 (0.06) m] as the highest speed that could be sustained for about 20 s on a treadmill. During testing, ...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-002-0646-9
更新日期：2002-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:The motor cortex (M1) appears to be a primary site of adaptation following both a single session, and repeated strength-training sessions across multiple weeks. Given that a single session of strength-training is sufficient to induce modification at the level of the M1 and corticospinal tract, this study sought...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-020-04316-6
更新日期：2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Beta-endorphin (betaE) is an important reliever of pain. Various stressors and certain modalities of physiotherapy are potent inducers of the release of endogenous betaE to the blood stream. Most forms of exercise also increase blood betaE level, especially when exercise intensity involves reaching the anaerobic thres...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1007/s00421-007-0469-9
更新日期：2007-07-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of a fatigue-inducing bout of submaximal, intermittent isometric contractions on the electromechanical delay (EMD) of the leg extensors and flexors in young and old men. METHODS:Twenty young (mean ± SD: age = 25 ± 2.8 years) and sixteen old (age = 70.8 ±...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-013-2675-y
更新日期：2013-09-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation (TENS) increases local blood flow. It is not known whether increase in blood flow may be caused by inhibition of sympathetic activity, mediated by muscle metaboreflex activity. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of TENS on metaboreflex activation and heart ...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-011-2084-z
更新日期：2012-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Improving endurance capacity leads to increased athletic performance and active lifestyles. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of the intake of red grape leaf extract (RGLE), used as a traditional herbal medicine in the Mediterranean area, on endurance capacity in mice. Male BALB/c mice were divided i...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-011-1826-2
更新日期：2011-09-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:Previous studies suggest that exercise and heat stress improve cutaneous endothelial function, caused by increases in shear stress. However, as vasodilatation in the skin is primarily a thermogenic phenomenon, we investigated if shear stress alone without increases in skin temperature that occur with exercise a...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-017-3732-8
更新日期：2017-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:The cross-stressor adaptation hypothesis suggests that regular exercise leads to adaptations in the stress response systems that induce decreased physiological responses to psychological stressors. Even though an exercise intervention to buffer the detrimental effects of psychological stressors on health might ...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-015-3284-8
更新日期：2016-02-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:To compare the increases in upper- and lower-body muscle strength in premenopausal women performing resistance training (RT) alone or alongside concurrent high-intensity interval training (CT). METHODS:Sixteen women (26-40 years) were randomly assigned into two groups that performed either RT or CT. Both group...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-017-3614-0
更新日期：2017-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:In this study, the effect of a simulated dive on rat brain was investigated using several magnetic resonance imaging (MRI)-methods and immunohistochemistry. Rats were randomly assigned to a dive- or a control group. The dive group was exposed to a simulated air dive to 600 kPa for 45 min. Pulmonary artery was monitore...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-012-2565-8
更新日期：2013-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The purpose of the present article is to identify the most appropriate method of scaling VO2max for differences in body mass when assessing the energy cost of time-trial cycling. The data from three time-trial cycling studies were analysed (N = 79) using a proportional power-function ANCOVA model. The maximum oxygen u...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 临床试验,杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-005-1321-8
更新日期：2005-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of transcutaneous electrical acupoint stimulation (TEAS) at selected acupoints on enhancing the rate of muscle force recovery after strenuous knee extension/flexion exercise. Ten male and seven female healthy young adults participated in this study in which they perform...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-007-0463-2
更新日期：2007-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Near-infrared finger photoplethysmograms were recorded and double-normalized pulse volumes (DNPV = DeltaV(b)/V(b); V(b) = total blood volume in the fingertip, DeltaV(b) = pulsatile component of V(b)) were calculated in ten subjects during, immersion of the contralateral hand in water at three different temperatures (4...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/PL00013788
更新日期：2000-01-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Force generated between the left mandible of violinists and the chinrest of the violin was examined using a force-sensing chinrest developed in this study. A strain-gauge force sensor was built, and it was fixed between the violin's top plate and a chin cup. Fifteen professional/amateur violinists held the violin stat...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-011-2178-7
更新日期：2012-06-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:Although large knee extensor torque contributes to superior sprint performance, previous findings have indicated that the quadriceps cross-sectional area (CSA), a pivotal morphological regulator of knee extensor torque, is not correlated with performance in sprinters. We hypothesized that the knee extensor mome...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-017-3557-5
更新日期：2017-03-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Androgenic steroids administered in doses at pharmacological levels to sedentary animals have been shown to result in a reduced beta-adrenoceptor-mediated increase in systolic cardiac performance when assessed in vivo. Whether the attenuated adrenergic response occurs as a consequence of alterations in either cardiac ...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s004210050048
更新日期：2000-03-01 00:00:00
abstract：:Energy system contribution during cross-country (XC) skiing races is dependent on several factors, including the race duration, track profile, and sub-techniques applied, and their subsequent effects on the use of the upper and lower body. This review provides a scientific synopsis of the interactions of energy system...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,评审
doi：10.1007/s00421-019-04158-x
更新日期：2019-08-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:To assess the validity of RR intervals and short-term heart rate variability (HRV) data obtained from the Polar V800 heart rate monitor, in comparison to an electrocardiograph (ECG). METHOD:Twenty participants completed an active orthostatic test using the V800 and ECG. An improved method for the identificatio...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-015-3303-9
更新日期：2016-03-01 00:00:00
abstract：:The association of expertness in specific motor activities with a higher ability to sustain a constant application of force, regardless of muscle length, has been hypothesized. Ten highly skilled (HS group) young tennis and handball athletes and 10 sedentary (S group) individuals performed maximal and submaximal (5, 1...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s00421-009-1184-5
更新日期：2009-12-01 00:00:00
abstract：PURPOSE:This study tested the hypothesis that a novel, audio-visual-directed, home-based exercise training intervention would be effective at improving cardiometabolic health and mental well-being in inactive premenopausal women. METHODS:Twenty-four inactive premenopausal women (39 ± 10 years) were randomly assigned t...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章,随机对照试验
doi：10.1007/s00421-020-04315-7
更新日期：2020-04-01 00:00:00
abstract：:To examine the effects of thermal stress on the blood pressure variability and the arterial baroreceptor-cardiac reflex during orthostatic stress, 11 male volunteers underwent whole body thermal stress using a cool or hot water-perfused suit during 5 min of 70 degrees head-up tilt (HUT). The spontaneous variability in...
journal_title：European journal of applied physiology
pub_type： 杂志文章
doi：10.1007/s004210100387
更新日期：2001-04-01 00:00:00
